Scottee’s Hamburger Queen is a bold theatrical experience slash beauty pageant; a world in which normality is cheekily reversed and drag queen make-up is de rigour. The Marlborough Theatre threw open its doors to an enthusiastic audience who watched three contestants battle for a place in the Hamburger Queen final. The twist is that these ladies are fat and we were all there to celebrate their non-traditional beauty.

The energy was high and the performance style clownish, including a panel of three celebrity judges who provided commentary and scores. A short film was shown – snippets of interviews with women who struggle with how the world perceives and reacts to their weight – which perfectly undercut the flamboyant exterior of burlesque and chocolate cake.

The pace of the event was slow, running at more than two hours with limited time with the contestants. There were two intervals to facilitate costume changes – which drained the atmosphere each time the audience vacated the theatre space. A venue with a bar included might better serve the piece, keeping the buzz contained.

Hamburger Queen was subversive and enjoyable, achieving what theatre is perfectly positioned to do – putting two fingers up to popular culture.