River Spice, Brighton

FOR a no-frills curry house that offers traditional Indian cuisine at very affordable prices, River Spice is quite special.

Sitting in the window seat overlooking Brighton's bustling Preston Street, we were welcomed with a smile and papadoms as you’d expect.

But this place put their own twist on the appetiser served in every curry house in the UK.

As well as the classic mango chutney and lime pickle, they had ditched the mint yoghurt and onions for a coleslaw-come-relish which was a nice change for the requisite dish.

After a quick glance at the menu, we ordered two of the house specialities and one traditional curry.

We put the accompanying dishes in the hands of the kitchen, and they did not disappoint.

The Chicken Pasanda, which in many curry houses will come out looking radioactive, was a rich, brown colour and the natural look was reflected in the taste.

The presentation of the two house specials was just that – special.

Our Chicken Bengal - deep fried chicken marinated with garlic, lemon and white flour then cooked in tomato, capsicum and chilli sauce - came served on a bed of shredded lettuce and was begging to be devoured.

But the star of the show was the Lamb Chop Bhuna.

The succulent cutlets could’ve made it as a stand-alone dish with a bit of seasoning.

Add to that a tangy and fresh sauce and you have a hit - and you can order it for less than £10.

The knowledgeable staff chose pilau rice, garlic naan, Baby Balgan and Saag Alloo to accompany the mains and they were triumphant.

The baby aubergines were delicious, and added a kick to the mild passanda dish, and the Saag Alloo offered a cleansing of the pallet before taking on the spicier special dishes. Of course, a curry is not a curry without a Cobra. Serve this lager anywhere outside a curry house and it just tastes odd.

Serve it in a curry house and it ties the whole meal together. To end the meal, the waiter offered us a desert menu and a mango sorbet and chocolate truffles did not last long once they were brought to the table.

A great curry house that I’d definitely recommend.

River Spice,
17 Preston St,
Brighton,
BN1 2HN
01273 739183
http://www.riverspice.com/