Rootcandi

Western Road, Brighton, 01273 965904

WHEN it comes to innovation in vegetarian food, Steve Billam has been at the forefront in Brighton’s restaurant scene.

His fast food canteen Iydea, opened its first branch in Kensington Gardens in 2006, providing a delicious alternative to the soggy beanburger.

And now the first floor of the second Western Road branch, which opened in 2013 is home to his latest project – Rootcandi, which is billed as the UK’s first vegetarian tapas restaurant.

“We always intended to do something different for the evenings when we opened this venue,” he says from Rootcandi’s bright and airy home.

“Tapas is all about sharing – in terms of styles of eating it is the best.

“We aren’t limited about what we can do here – we have the whole genre of plant-based tapas. There are no rules, we can do whatever we want.”

Making that happen is Rootcandi’s head chef Reuben Waller, who comes to Rootcandi direct from the Michelin-starred kitchen Chez Nico.

He is providing an ever-changing seasonal menu, which is exclusively plant-based with no animal products involved.

“I had got to the point in my career where I had lost some motivation, love and passion for food,” admits Waller. “When Steve talked to me about his plans it was a real eye-opener for me. I am learning new things - but bringing to it my cooking skills and techniques. The fact this hasn’t been done before is a great opportunity.”

Rounding out the team at Rootcandi is restaurant manager Reeshi Patel, who has moved across from corporate restaurant chains with the aim to going back to basics. He met Billam when the two were out walking their dogs.

“For me it’s all about the experience,” he says. "I want to make sure the guest has a great time, and the service is professional but friendly.”

The menu is currently divided into three tapas sets, taking inspiration from different parts of the world, but their names from Brighton’s parks.

Preston, which costs £15.95 per person, features South American inspired dishes, including cassava cakes, risoles parcels, avocado and mango salsa and paprika smoked potatoes.

Stanmer, currently the most popular at £14.95 per person, is based on modern European cuisine, including turmeric courgette fries, beetroot risotto, roast butternut balls and courgette and cucumber spaghetti.

And Queens, which is £16.50 per person, is a pan-Asian option, including delicious steamed carrot dumplings, baby pak choi in a spicy tamari, Chinese mustard and pickled ginger sauce, and beetroot and butternet tempura – which has a light a perfectly cooked batter.

The sets are enough for two people to share, although diners can also select individual items from each menu. Each table gets its own nibbles to help choose from the menu, and there are also a range of breads from £3.95, and dessert options at £5.95 including burnt poached pear, chocolate and beetroot pot and mixed fruit elderflower tarte tatin.

“The sets have been carefully crafted by the kitchen for complimentary textures and flavours,” says Billam. “It makes choosing rather easy! We hope to expand up to five sets – at the moment there is a choice of 18 dishes, we would like to get that up to nearly 40. Most dishes are gluten free.”

All the dishes are served on a stand specially designed by Billam, made of olive wood with easily removable pots. As well as creating a certain amount of food theatre – which has customers reaching for their cameras – it means tables aren’t cluttered with dishes.

To accompany the food menu is a list of vegan, organic and biodynamic wines, as well as a selection of tasty cocktails – including a gorgeous Cucumber And Rose Collins for £6.50.

Although Rootcandi may be based in the same building as Iydea there is no crossover in terms of dishes or culinary staff, with a separate ten-strong team looking after up to 70 covers a night.

“We are hoping to make this a showcase where people who prefer plant-based food can bring their friends to show them there is another way without exploitation of animals,” says Billam.

“Iydea is the best fast food in Brighton, now we are showcasing the best we can do from plants. We are aiming for everyone – the food service, presentation, atmosphere and environment is all the best we can do.”

Open Tues to Thurs 6pm to 9pm, Fri/Sat 6pm to 10pm. Visit www.rootcandi.co.uk