Stephen Crane, head chef at Ockenden Manor, answers our questions

How would you describe your style of food?

“It’s good country house cooking. We’re a country house hotel, so we have to serve country house cuisine. We buy the best ingredients locally and cook it simply.”

How did you come to be working at Ockenden Manor?

“I worked at The Spread Eagle in Midhurst, which is part of the same group of hotels [Historic Sussex Hotels, which also includes Baliffscourt Hotel in Climping]. I chose to come to Ockenden as it was easier to get home in the afternoon and get the kids home from school.

“I come from Balcombe, and went to school in Cuckfield. As a young chef I was hoping I would get a Michelin star so it was a great chance to come home and do that.”

What is your signature dish?

“We have some smoked mackerel, that we smoke ourselves. The fish comes from Brighton and Newhaven Fish Sales. We serve it with apple, smoked and pickled beetroot, horseradish cream and sea herbs and oyster crackers. It’s my favourite dish – it’s been on the menu for about a year now.”

Where do you like to eat on your night off?

“I try to get out once a month and go to eat out in London. I’ve always like The Square, in Berkeley Square, London – it’s a benchmark for me. It’s not overly modern, but they always find ways of keeping up with the times.”

What inspired you to become a chef?

“I got a job washing up at Highley Manor in Balcombe – I liked the buzz of the kitchen and the surroundings. I remember thinking this is something I would like to pursue. I started in Balcombe and ended up in Cuckfield!”

Who has been your biggest influence?

“My sous chef Vincent Fayat has been with me for 15 to 16 years – we’ve been together a long time. We bounce a lot of ideas off each other.

“I’m also influenced by the young chefs that come into my kitchen. Two of my guys have gone off to get their own Michelin stars at the Bath Priory [in Bath] and Montagu Arms [in the New Forest].

“I do a lot of work with local schools and colleges – I’m from this area and I like locals from this area to do well.”

What is your guilty food pleasure?

“I have a penchant for most things that are bad for you – kebabs, fish and chips and ketchup!”

What are your ambitions for the future?

“I want to retain the star here, and I’m really into training and teaching. I want everyone who works for me to be incredibly skilful.”

What was your worst time cooking?

“My toughest time was when we had to refurb the kitchen. For four months we had to cook in a Portacabin on the lawn. It was incredibly hard – for the first time in my career I wanted to get home at the end of a shift. As we got through the four months it got easier. Tempers flared now and then, which normally never happens, but we managed – and we retained our star.”