Sushi and noodle bar E-Kagen probably hasn’t changed much in years.

The Gourmand remembers going there perhaps 20 years ago, long before moving to the area.

Memories of the food itself have long since faded, but memories of the memories remain, and it left enough of an imprint to be sure there must have been something special going on all those years ago.

The bright kaleidoscopic flavours of kelp, niboshi and shiitake had an enlightening effect on a hungry young Gourmand, opening up a world of Asian flavours previously limited to sweet and sour chicken and instant noodles.

So a businesslike round of applause is deserved for E-Kagen's longevity - in an industry which does not always fairly value the craft of patiently standing over a stove for years on end.

Upstairs from Japanese supermarket Yum Yum, there’s not a lot of obvious signs for the diner.

Even during the evening, you have to maintain a bit of persistence to shoulder open the door and clamber the stairs, because it does not always look open - and is closed Monday-Thursday.

The slightly drab interior, is quickly superceded by the warm flush of recognition as vapour from the stock pot brings back dormant memories.

The original owner still seems to be helming the open kitchen, and there's an outpouring of warmth from the waiting staff.

There’s usually a good quota of East Asians inside, a lazy but usually accurate barometer of authenticity.

E-Kagen does sushi and noodles, and and while The Gourmand could happily cram sushi until bulbous in the belly, for these purposes we will concentrate on the noodles. And what great noodles there are.

Ramen has been one of the most enduring food trends of the last ten years as New York and London restaurants exploit it for all its greatness.

With endless regional variations and limitless adaptability, its safe to say it inspires a particularly zealous, near mythical type of dedication.

And again, E-Kagen’s recipe probably hasn’t changed in years.

A bowl of ramen would be nothing without good stock and noodles, and E-Kagen’s miso broth has plenty of the moreish salty, porky, fat-streaked qualities it's known for.

Tradition is probably the wrong word given ramen's a relatively modern phenomenon, but it typically starts with kelp, with variations on shiitake mushrooms, roast chicken, pork bones and salty bacon introduced at various stages to enforce the broth.

There was no reason to suggest E Kagen’s hadn’t had this amount of love and patience, such was its umami depth.

Toppings-wise there was pickled ginger, boiled egg, crispy onion and seaweed - more the minimal canteen variety, than the flashier type. But it's hard to argue with the £6.50 price tag.

The Gourmand might have liked a higher noodle-to-broth ratio, but there will still oodles of the curly wheaty stuff which demanded a voracious kind of slurping, best chopsticked down the hatch with in no regard for a scorched tongue.

As well as a scattering of sushi and sashimi classics, there’s lots of other tantalising bits going on.

Elegantly pinched gyoza dumplings were like the ultimate in fragrant little sausages, moist and clean.

Unlike the Chinese variety, the seaweed came in salty square slithers that dissolved into into an umami memory.

And as well as the super clean tasting Kirin Ichiban lager, there is hot and cold house sake before tackling the gargantuan bowls of noodles.

In case anyone was wondering, Valentine's this weekend ahs not been forgotten, and admittedly the casual set-up would not be a typical shout for a romantic dinner for two.

But may I suggest letting the loved-up amateurs have their one night out of the year at the plush places, while serious eaters check out this gem of a noodle bar.