MY mother used to judge whether a restaurant was worth going to with a pretty straightforward measure. If they weren't doing things you couldn’t do at home, you may as well stay in and cook for yourself.

The world has changed since those pearls of wisdom were uttered. Eating out is way more affordable and accessible. No longer just for special occasions there’s an ever-expanding smorgasbord of cheap and mid-range options.

But despite all that, the adage still feels relevant. Everyone can surely remember that sinking feeling of disappointment after paying over the odds for a middling feed.

Not only should diners have a reasonable expectation of quality, but with such an immense variety of cuisine vying for our attention, if a restaurant specialises in something, it really does need to give it a decent go.

These are the conundrums which arise from a visit to Crafty Chooks. A rotisserie chicken restaurant and bar, it's had a pretty popular start since it opened in Second Avenue on the former Tin Drum site two years ago, particularly among Hove’s chummy business crowd.

Part of the Golden Lion Group, it is owned by the extravagantly coiffed David Day, who appears to be transitioning himself into a reincarnated Mufassa and can be seen prowling around in a garishly tinted Bentley. The group's eight city pubs are now run by his son Leo, and Crafty Chooks does get quite a bit right. Contemporarily styled with Chesterfield leather seats, bare brick walls, and light-bulb studded American-style fittings.

The restaurant and bar have the right balance between separation and flow, with a loungey part and some high stools depending on which you are inclined.

And the beer is excellent, with a great pint of Harveys Sussex Best on draft for the traditionalists, and a load of craft beers from the likes of Schiehallion, Wild Beer, Brewdog and Einstock for the the hopsters. The cocktail and wine menu also looks promising, with whisky sours, caiprinha and Tom Collins, as well as some of their own creations, such as the Cava love, a summery concoction of brut and strawberries.

But it’s the chicken it specialises that we came to try, and on that measure it is pretty ordinary.

There was nothing terribly wrong with the whole spit-roasted bird, but there was nothing especially fantastic about it either.

Crafty Chooks makes much of using free range poultry, and this may well be the case, but the chicken was pale and flabby, and not the distinctive rich creamy yellow that comes from corn-feeding.

The most obvious comparison would be Nando’s, though The Gourmand wonders whether Crafty Chooks might be a slightly weaker imitation of the popular mega-chain at least as far as the main event is concerned. The chicken comes with sauce, so there is no marinade on the chicken, and no licks from the char-grill.

The choice of sauces include smoked barbecue, satay, pesto, aioli and chimmurri and the piri piri is pretty good, made in-house and beckons out up the wallflower chicken.

The fries are also great – skinny, crispy and liberally salted.

But the mac and cheese was awful, mushy overcooked pasta, tasteless béchamel and scant cheese. The corn on the cob looked promising but came out stone cold.

Judged by mother’s benchmark, it doesn’t really stand up. The chicken would be fine for a Sunday roast, but The Gourmand could do better at home, rotisserie or not. All you need as liberal amounts of salt, pepper and butter, some heat from the oven, and some lemon and thyme and already the bird has a lot more going on.

Crafty Chooks is fine for a casual crowd having after after work drinks or some protein to soak up a few beers.

But it's hard to accept Leo Day's claim that it is bringing a "completely new dining experience to the city".

While the interior and bar are good, a bit of work is needed on the food before it lives up to the hype and distinguishes itself beyond a generic chain-type restaurant.