Famiglia proves it's worth travelling for Italian food

Can those beyond the city really stake a claim to be up there with the best against the plethora of options we have here?

Places like Polpo in New Road are very cutting edge and new.

So the danger of heading elsewhere is getting somewhere more dated, offering common pizza and pasta options lacking in excitement.

The county is awash with great places though. Restaurants that, hopefully, have the ability to make me feel as if I was on holiday again after a recent trip.

I wanted to be transport back to the Mediterranean with fresh flavours and tastes, with fresh flavours.

So with high hopes, I headed to Famiglia – which means family in Italian.

And it is run by an Italian family so I was feeling optimistic for a genuine experience from the northern Italian menu.

I was warmly greeted by a man who was obviously busy but charming and welcoming nonetheless.

Inside the restaurant is cosy but bright.

The tables and plastic chairs were a bit too much like I had walked into a website or new media company’s office to begin with – lots of grey and luminous colours.

But I warmed to the fun feel.

It was great to see families with children out eating after 8pm in this country.

In fact one man came in and asked for a table of three and then the rest of his family arrived.

In England we are far too stuffy and parents feel far too self-conscious about how much noise and mess children make.

Let them tear the place up and add joy to our lives, I say.

Before ordering I did get a bit worried when I looked around and saw a fellow diner had just enjoyed a steak on a wooden slab.

When’s all this nonsense going to end? What’s wrong with a plate.

I like a good sauce and I don’t like my dinner spilling on to the table and all over me.

And to my horror my bresaola with rocket and parmesan arrived on a mini chopping board.

When I went to drizzle oil and balsamic vinegar over it I had to be careful.

Lemon pips all over the place too.

My fussiness was soon forgotten though when I bit into the lovely cured beef, the tender slices working well with the rocket. I was on the beach.

Now fish stew on a Tuesday is a big gamble because it is often served on a Monday to use up fish that wasn’t sold at the weekend.

But I went for it.

I wanted to taste the Med and I wasn’t disappointed in that respect.

The mussels, calamari and salmon were great in the tomato, chilli and garlic sauce.

It’s not all about the value but three prawns and rest of the fish did not really justify the £15.95 price tag.

For example I’ve had lots of crab with chilli and linguine nearer £10 that has been nicer.

I really enjoyed it though and when I asked for more of their fantastic bread, out it came.

In fact the bread was a highlight – straight from the wonderful Flint Owl Bakery in Glynde.

It is also used at places such as the Lion and Lobster and the Preston Park Tavern in Brighton.

By the time I was enjoying my warm and fluffy orange and polenta cake with its crisp topping and ice cream I was a happy soul.

I fled into the autumn night with that Mediterranean sun on my face and in my stomach.

So in answer to my own question – yes it is worth heading out of Brighton for an Italian meal and not just to Italy.

Famiglia’s menu is full of safe choices but the dishes are fantastically cooked and far from boring.

The vibe in the cosy room at the front and the better rear restaurant area is just right.

Famiglia

Market Street

Lewes

Food/drink – Four stars (out of Five)

Restaurant –Three stars (out of Five)

Service – Five stars (out of Five)