A few years ago The Gourmand was on a trip away from Sussex when he stumbled upon a celebrity chef demonstration.

The Carluccio’s brand was still relatively new and the man himself was appearing at the opening of one of the new restaurants.

Antonio Carluccio spoke to the small crowd with a verve and love of food which was infectious.

His charming personality, polite nature and the care he took with his ingredients was a joy to behold.

The way he handled his food was a beautiful thing.

One was so taken with him that after purchasing his book, I asked him to sign it.

Just like on stage, he took his time and engaged me in conversation.

An absolutely charming man in person too, asking questions about what type of food I liked, had I enjoyed the presentation and so on and so forth. He was in no rush – such an enjoyable chat.

He set the blueprint for the likes of his friend Gennaro Contaldo, and in turn Contaldo’s protégé Jamie Oliver, to spread the word on Italian food through their passion for the country and its cuisine.

Though his links with the restaurant chain he founded are not as strong as they were – he no longer owns and runs it – he is still the face of Carluccio’s and remains the spirit behind the food and the menus as a consultant.

It was after changes to the menu that the Gourmand decided to make a return visit to the Brighton restaurant.

One is not a huge fan of the building from the outside. All that glass and the modern look does not quite sit with the feel of a traditional Italian restaurant.

But once inside, all that light works well and it is an OK spot in the bustling heart of the city.

For starters Carluccio’s does not offer a huge range, which is fine – and actually how it should be.

Too many items, especially at a chain restaurant, are often a bad sign. But this menu has obviously been well thought through and each dish practised and perfected.  

The marinated prawns illustrated this.

Sauteed with white wine, baby plum tomatoes, chilli and fennel seeds in a tomato and basil sauce, they were a delight for the taste buds.

The amount of chilli was spot on for the Gourmand, enough to add to the taste without being too much.

The prawns were not overcooked and hard, crucially. It was a real shame there was a lack of bread during the busy dinnertime session to really mop up that lovely sauce properly.

Another starter, the Sicilian arancini, was not as impressive for the Gourmand. It is billed as street food, Sicily style – two crispy rice balls, with one filled with buffalo mozzarella and basil and the other filled with provolone cheese, beef ragu and sauce.

This comes served with pepolata sauce, made with grilled peppers, garlic and anchovies.

The sauce helped add to the taste but those rice balls came across as a little too dry.

The ragu ball was better and they were enjoyed by my partner, so maybe it was just me.

Talking of my partner, next up for her was the ravioli al limone. These pasta parcels come filled with ricotta and pine nuts in lemon sauce and topped with fresh mint and toasted pine nuts.

It is probably more of a spring or summer dish, that refreshing lemon taste with the mint. But it went down so well it is worth keeping on the menu in winter, transporting you to Sicily, or the Amalfi coast, in one bite. Delicious and surprisingly filling too.

When one thinks of Antonio Carluccio one thinks of mushrooms.

That first experience of the man himself included a mushroom-cooking demonstration. It is with that memory that I could not resist the risotto al funghi. And one cannot regret the choice.

When the food arrived I was asked if I wanted parmesan. I did – but was disgruntled to be left waiting while the waiter attended to something at another table. Please don’t leave people waiting when they have their food in front of them.

But when I finally got to eat it, the risotto was perfectly cooked, emboldened by the flavours of mushroom, chilli and hint of truffles. Unlike those crispy rice balls, this was full of taste and with a creamy texture, rich and flavoursome.

We left feeling pleasantly full – and happy to know Mr Carlucccio’s influence and style remains. The service just needs a touch more of his charm.

  • The Gourmand always pays for his meals.

Carluccio’s, Jubilee Street, Brighton

Service ★★★

Food ★★★★

Atmosphere ★★★★★

MENU TASTER

Sicilian Arancini £4.95

Prawns marinara £6.95

Ravioli Al Limone £9.50

Risotto Al Funghi £12.95

Peroni Nastro Azzurro 330ml £3.95