White water roars over car-sized rocks. Scores of waterfalls cascade through the chasm and plunge into the pool below, filling the air with a fine spray that dampens my cheeks.

Standing on a viewing platform just below this first set of falls, I watch the River Llugwy swirl and swell before tumbling over a second drop. Beech trees cling to the sides of the gorge, leaves trembling from the force of the surging water.

Swallow Falls is one of many reasons to visit Betws-y-Coed – a former metal mining village at the confluence of four rivers in Snowdonia National Park. Steep hills swathed in evergreens rise above this pretty Welsh village, which has attracted sightseers, artists and outdoor enthusiasts since the Victorian era.

Still a major tourist hub, Betws-y-Coed (pronounced ‘bettus-i-coyd’) is lined with cafes and walking shops. The miniature steam train and 14th-century church draw Sunday sightseers, and a network of old miners’ paths lead to beauty spots like Swallow Falls, or link to trails in the Gwydyr Forest.

And with 823 square miles of National Park on its doorstep and a train station at its centre, Betws-y-Coed makes an ideal base for exploring more of Snowdonia, visiting the seaside town of Llandudno, or making a day trip to summit Snowdon itself.

But having driven for five hours from Brighton, and with everything from cosy pubs to spa facilities a few paces from my suite at the Waterloo Hotel, my car keys stayed in my pocket all weekend.

A magnet for mountain bikers, this area is well known for its off-road trails, some fairly easy – albeit with long uphill climbs – and others, like the legendary Marin Trail, better suited to experienced bikers. For advice on which would best match my ability, I headed to Beics Bikes in the village.

“The Marin Trail goes up and down like a yo-yo, but you can divert off it, if it gets too tricky,” owner Sion explained. “The old Roman road up to Llyn Elsi and the main forest roads are much easier.”

Taking Sion’s advice, I whizzed through the village and crossed the historic Pont-y-Pair bridge over the river Llugwy, to meet a wide track leading into the forest. Switching to my lowest gear, I pedalled slowly uphill, my tyres crushing pine needles to a Christmas-scented pesto.

I spent my day nipping on and off the Marin Trail, ricocheting over rocks, weaving down gravelly paths and taking the odd tumble as I struggled over root riddled sections.

I admit it was tricky, but worth it for the views: glassy lakes (or ‘Llyns’) reflected the jagged peaks that rose around me, their wild beauty contrasting with derelict engine houses and ruined metal mines.

When my legs could take no more, I freewheeled until I burst out of the pines, landing back in the village. After a pint at Y Stable – the go-to drinking hole after a day in the hills – I headed back to soothe my muscles in the hotel sauna.

“I could get used to this” I thought, as I tucked into Welsh lamb cutlets at The Waterloo’s restaurant that night, now wonderfully relaxed and on my third pint of ale. Snowdonia may have been a step up from the South Downs, but the rewards and the achingly beautiful scenery had more than made up for the challenges.

  • The Waterloo Hotel & Lodge costs £93.20 a night, based on two sharing. There’s a restaurant and a bar, and guests get free use of a spa. www.waterloo-hotel.info
  • Beics Betws offer mountain bike hire for £28 including a helmet, map and toolkit. www.bikewales.co.uk
  • Arriva and Virgin trains run daily from London Euston to Betws-y-Coed from £82.70 return, and take four hours.
  • For more information see www.visitwales.co.uk or www.visitconwy.com