What could be a better way to celebrate your first born’s 18th birthday than whisking them away for a surprise break where the itinerary is “spend some quality time together, explore, visit some art galleries and chill out in cool cafes and bars”? Catherine Eade found out

Prague had been heartily recommended by friends who’d been over the years and so it was I found myself secretly booking seats 18A and B on a flight to the east European city of culture for myself and my daughter, Emily.

It is not only the capital of the Czech Republic, but the country’s cultural, business and political centre and as such boasts an impressive number of cultural heritage sites, historic castles, palaces, abbeys and architectural monuments.

Although the city is so compact you can easily walk most of it, Prague’s public transport network is cheap and efficient, and a daily travel pass even includes the funicular railway that runs from the Lesser Town up to the top of Petrin Hill. At the summit, set in landscaped gardens, is the Petrin Observation Tower, a mirror maze and an observatory.

Besides we wanted a go on the retro red and cream trams whizzing everywhere.

Prague Castle (Pražský hrad, or just hrad to the Czechs) is Prague’s most popular attraction, towering above the city with its gothic spires, towers and palaces. According to the Guinness World Records, it is the largest ancient castle in the world, covering a total area bigger than seven football fields.

Within the castle walls a varied collection of historic buildings, museums and art galleries are home to some of the Czech Republic's greatest artistic and cultural treasures – but it was inside the enormous St Vitus’ Cathedral with its beautiful stained glass windows we lingered longest.

After half a day of castle wandering and lunch at ‘Loveg’, (vegan versions of Austrian food - rather good) we headed back through the charming area of the Malá Strana or Lesser Town area to take a closer look at the sculptures we’d seen from the window of the tram earlier.

The Memorial to the Victims of Communism, in Újezd, at the bottom of Petrín Hill is made up of six lifesize bronze statues, each progressively more ‘decayed’, an artwork which brilliantly captures the corrosive and debilitating effect of the communist regime. A plate at the bottom of the staircase lists the chilling statistics: "205486 convicted, 248 executed, 4500 died in prison, 327 annihilated at the border, 170938 emigrated". Smiling tourists pose holding hands with the nearest figure inevitably, if somewhat inappropriately.

It’s an understatement to say that the Czech Republic has a strong beer culture. After we’d got over the shock of people smoking indoors we enjoyed trying the Czech beer, and on hearing it was a birthday weekend two friendly barstaff called Radek and Veronika created some special shots including a flaming Absinthe concoction.

One of my pet hates after a long day walking around a city is returning to a poky room, so the accommodation I’d sourced couldn’t have been better. Andel’s Hotel Prague, by Andel subway station, is a sleek modern hotel with floor to ceiling windows and airy open spaces. Our studio was more like a small apartment than a hotel room, with a kitchen area, armchairs and widescreen TV, and we were happy to find a huge breakfast buffet laid on the next morning.

Prague’s architecture is one of the city’s biggest draws. There are more examples of Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, neoclassical and art nouveau buildings than you can shake a stick at.

I’d been recommended to see Gothic marvel, the statue-lined Charles Bridge, either at dawn or at sunset when it’s less busy, but even the swarms of visitors videoing themselves on the bridge with their selfie sticks at midday didn’t ruin our experience.

In the Old Town square, with its ever-changing cast of buskers, protesters, dance troupes and vendors, we joined the crowds to watch the Astronomical Clock’s hourly dance of medieval allegorical figures. There was just time to wander round a photography exhibition before lunch in a chi-chi restaurant in the Jewish Quarter.

Finding the John Lennon Wall with its ever-changing brightly coloured graffiti, and following it up with a drink in the John Lennon pub turned out to be another highlight of our stay.

Three days felt like a good length of time to dip into this beautiful city, although we could have stayed longer. I have a feeling we’ll be back…if only to write our names on John Lennon wall again.

THE FACTS

  • Catherine and Emily stayed at Andel’s Hotel Prague www.vi-hotels.com /en/andels-prague/ n There are many carriers offering cheap, regular flights from Gatwick to Prague. Flight time is under two hours.
  • For 110 Czech koruna (£2.90) you can buy a 24 hour travel pass valid on all public transport in the city.
  • Having said that it’s much easier to book a taxi to and from Prague airport (around £15).