AFTER two devastating Wold Wars, the French city of Reims needed wholesale rebuilding.

The restoration of its cathedral, said to be the birthplace of modern-day France, still continues to this day, thanks to the generosity of the American Rockefeller family, who shared the horror of the world as it in suffered intense German shelling in 1914.

But there was another source of income which surely helped rebuild the stricken city: Champagne.

As the gateway to the world renowned wine-growing region, the riches of Reims' great Champagne Houses no doubt played their part reviving the ailing post-war economy.

And the relationship between the place and drink also has a literal element, with the city built physically on top of millions of bottles of Champagne, with 200km of galleries the place of quiet ageing in the damp murk.

The prized product is distributed as part of Champagne’s 300 million bottle a year industry, with an enthusiastic 32 million a year going to the UK alone – by far the biggest export customer.

And with a high-speed train making the journey between Paris and Reims just 45 minutes, wine lovers no longer have any excuse to put off a pilgrimage.

After taking the pain-free journey, our first taste of the Champagne was a grand with a visit to G.H. Mumm, a 200-year-old producer.

As one of the world's most recognisable brands, and sponsor of F1 racing, expect a visit to Mumm to be slick and corporate. Yet the tasting is personal, with a rich and generous exploration through some of their finest wines.

A 2008 blanc de blancs, made purely from the white Chardonnay, is a fresh, elegant way to start.

But its the signature cuvee Cordon Rouge, whose iconic bottle is crossed with a red ribbon, where the three key Champagne grapes - robust pinot noir, rounding meunier and fresh Chardonnay - come together, from a total of 77 growers. Aged for 24 months, the wine is initially bursting with fresh white fruits, before maturing into a vanilla and bread finish.

If Cordon Rouge is the standard-bearer, then our last taste is the prestige. Millésimé 2002 Cuvée R. Lalou, Mumm’s prestige Champagne in tribute to its former chairman, is a complex golden grand cru with gourmet notes of nougat and honey, a treat which must be tasted to be believed.

While the international focus might be on grand houses like Mumm and Moët & Chandon, much of the big houses' grapes are bought from independent small growers.

And for the growers with the means to produce their own wine, boutiques such as Club Tresors de Champagne in Reims offer a stylish platform to collectively present their spoils, such as H Goutourbe, based in Ay.

At nearby culinary quarter is master patisserie Pascal Caffet, whose macaroons are reputedly the best in the world, making for an elegant accompaniment to a tasting.

Much of the Champagne houses, restaurants and tourist attractions of Reims can be visited on foot – and the regional tourism board is keen to promote the access from Paris via the state-run railway.

Just 45 minutes from the capital on the super-fast 200mph TGV train, other key parts of Champagne are equally accessible via train.

From Reims the picturesque Rilly-La-Montagne makes for a lush stop off on the way to Capital of champagne Épernay.

We stop off at Le Château de Rilly, an elegant 18th century mansion overlooking vines, before visiting fifth generation artisan winery Vilmart.

While many producers have long since abandoned oak vats in favour of larger, less porous stainless steel containers, Vilmart has kept up the tradition, sticking to organic techniques.

It is also just one of four houses that do not use the malolactic fermentation – a process designed to soften the tart acidic flavour.

And were many houses can choose from a huge variety of villages to make their preferred blend, Vilmart relies on just two, with some cherished vines decades old.

Even the long-mechanised process of ‘riddling’ – twisting and turning the yeast sediment to the neck of the bottle – is still down by hand.

Another 20 minute train journey away is Épernay, home to wold famous Evenue de Champagne, lined with the Renaissance and Classical mansions of Moët & Chandon and Perrier-Jouët.

Reputedly the most expensive street in the world due to the bottles stored underground, the grand road was transformed with the arrival of the railway, helping transport Champagne east and west.

The caves really do have to be seen to be appreciated, and during the war served as both hiding place and prison, the soft walls etched in historical graffiti.

And while Moët & Chandon and its sister brand Dom Pérignon have become synonymous with the more blingy aspects of Champagne, it nonetheless offers a rather special tour and tasting in a grand room overlooking founder Claude Moët's English garden.

This being France there are of course some rather good restaurants in Épernay, particularly La Cave à Champagne, which does proud rustic fare such as the growers’ salad, spiked with white grapes and lardons.

For the adventurous is tête de veau vinaigrette, calves’ head including tongue, cheek and brain, for a uniquely gelatinous, and an acquired taste.

Also worth a visit is the modish La Theatre, which serves refined classic French cuisine.

Champagne may still be a premium product which comes with a premium price tag, but a visit to the region shows it has long since thrown off its elitist reputation.

And the insight into the long and careful process makes the cost seem validated.

Expect a generous, educational experience and a dazzling array of wines which will put you off ever reaching for the cheap Prosecco again.

*This trip was a jointly organised and funded by French state-owned railway company SNCF and Tourism Champagne-Ardenne

Train fares from London to Reims start at £86 standard class return per person.

Fares from London to Epernay start at £98 standard class return per person.

London to Paris by Eurostar costs from £58 return.

Paris to Reims is from £12.50 one way.

Train between Reims and Rilly la Montagne from £2.50 one way.

Rilly la Montagne and Epernay from £4 one way.

Tickets can be booked at Voyages-sncf.com or by calling 0844 848 5 848.

For more details the Regional Tourist Board for Champagne & Ardenne is www.champagne-ardenne-tourism.co.uk.