As my plane landed at Shanghai airport, my sense of excitement grew. Here I was in a country I had long been fascinated by but which, in reality, I knew very little about.

In my head I imagined Mao-suited crowds watched over at every corner by grim-faced police or members of the People’s Liberation Army.

Nothing could have been further from the truth.

The first surprise was the airport itself – large, modern and without even the slightest sense of Big Brother watching.

If I had any lingering preconceptions, they were dispelled on the drive into Shanghai, a fascinating city that entranced me from the word go. High-rise apartments and office blocks sprouted like wheat in a field, while on the busy roads mopeds and bicycles jostled for space with top-of-the range Mercedes and BMWs.

In Shanghai, like Hong Kong, communism and capitalism co-exist and, on the surface at least, it appears to be a happy union. Upmarket stores such as Gucci and Louis Vuitton are just a short walk away from enormous six-floor shopping malls where prices are reasonable by Western standards. And all around, sprinkled among the shopping centres, are towering tributes to China’s growing importance as a business hub – banks, insurance companies, computer giants, all have an imposing presence in Shanghai.

The red star might flutter over the city but as a centre for commerce and shopping it can surely have few rivals.

I was staying at the Pudong Shangri-La, a luxurious hotel on the banks of the Huangpo River. Gazing out of the floor-to-ceiling windows of my 34th-floor room, I had breathtaking views of the world famous Bund – “the Paris of the Orient”– a sight even more spectacular when lit up at night.

The Bund is a glorious mix of neo-classical buildings, mostly constructed in the 1920s and 1930s by various Western magnates and companies. It was a place where fortunes were made and lost but is now largely the haunt of tourists and wedding parties.

The Pudong Shangri-La is itself a major jewel in Shanghai’s crown. Its imposing entrance lobby took my breath away and the staff could not have been more welcoming and helpful.

And if fine dining is high on your list of priorities then the Pudong Shangri-La ticks all the boxes – its restaurants are run by award-winning or Michelin-starred chefs.

The next morning, the hotel arranged a trip to Zhouzhuang, an hour’s journey from Shanghai and dubbed the Venice of the East.

Zhouzhuang is surrounded and divided by lakes and rivers and can trace its history back almost 1,000 years, though most of the houses date from the Ming (1368-1644) and Quing (1644-1911) dynasties. The town itself is like a film set, with ancient wooden houses lining picturesque canals, criss-crossed by 14 stone bridges.

The town is excruciatingly pretty and a trip on one of the canal boats, while the oarsman or woman sings traditional songs, is something that will stay in your memory for ever.

After an all too short stay in Shanghai, I departed for Guilin.

Situated in the north-east of Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region, which borders Vietnam, Guilin was the perfect contrast to the brash, 21st-century hustle and bustle of Shanghai.

Considered one of the most scenic destinations in China, it has been described as having “the finest mountains and rivers under heaven”.

It is certainly a stunningly beautiful city, surrounded by the world famous limestone karst mountains, which point sharply upwards like the teeth on a saw.

My base for the next few days was the Shangri-La Hotel, Guilin, just two years old and oozing five-star luxury.

My room was wonderful – large and airy – but its crowning glory was the view. From the window I could see the spectacular mountains in the near distance, creating a gorgeous backdrop to the busy city.

And within touching distance of the hotel was a colourful outdoor market where local farmers sold fruit, vegetables, spices and chickens.

Guilin is perfectly placed for those wanting to discover the rural laidback side of China.

There is plenty for the more energetic (cycling, hiking etc) but for the less adventurous there are two “must dos”.

The first is a boat trip down the Li River to Yangshuo.

This four-hour journey is a photographer’s dream. The gently flowing river meanders between awesome mountains that rise up into the sky while fishing villages dot the banks where water buffalo graze and farmers tend the paddy fields.

And if you’re lucky, at your journey’s end you might see one of the fishermen using cormorants to land his catch.

The second must, and my personal highlight, is a trip to the Longji rice terraces near Longsheng, a two-and-a-half hour drive to the north.

Known as the Dragon’s Backbone, the terraces were created 700 years ago and climb all the way up a series of 800m peaks. A relatively strenuous walk to the top is well worth the effort as the views are staggering.

Before visiting the terraces I stopped off at an idyllic and colourful Yao village, next to a fast-flowing mountain stream, where many of the people were dressed in traditional costumes and live in wooden houses that reminded me of Swiss chalets.

The long flight home gave me plenty of time to think about my experiences. After my initial trepidation, I had fallen for China. The friendliness of the people, the exceptional staff at the Shangri-La hotels and the stunning scenery all combined to make it a trip of a lifetime. Oh, and the food was out of this world.

* A double room at Pudong Shangri-La starts from RMB 2,473 (approx £243) per room per night. A double room at Shangri-La Hotel, Guilin, starts from RMB 1,106 (approx £108) per room per night. Prices are inclusive of breakfast, tax and service. To book visit www.shangri-la.com or call 0800 0283337

* Gareth flew from Heathrow to Shanghai with British Airways. For more information, visit www.britishairways.com