Twin peaks of perfection

A SIDE from the satisfying crunch of the gravel driveway, the only sound that greets my partner and I on our arrival at Doxford Hall is wonderful silence.

With its perfectly manicured gardens and countryside setting in the heart of rural Northumberland it’s hard to believe that only a couple of miles west of this grand country hotel lies the busy A1.

It is the perfect place to come and simply do nothing but relax, and so, after making ourselves comfortable in our large en-suite room, complete with fluffy white robes, we head out to make the most of the hotel’s spa and leisure club.

Luckily for us it’s empty, so I have free rein to rack up a few lengths of the swimming pool while my partner puts his feet up and relaxes in the jacuzzi and steam room.

Settling down for dinner in the George Runciman Restaurant, I’m more than a little grateful for the chance to burn off those few last-minute calories, as it’s clear from the extensive menu that the food at Doxford Hall is going to be impressive – and I’m not wrong.

To start, I opt for a hot smoked salmon and potato terrine with wasabi mayonnaise and pickled cucumbers, followed by a perfectly poached fillet of turbot with a shellfish sauce, chick pea chips and scallops that are cooked to perfection. For dessert, I go for a salted caramel brulee accompanied by deliciously light lemon sponge biscuits and vanilla ice cream – all served with a smile by a team of attentive waiters.

The next day dawns crisp and bright, and with it comes a hearty traditional Northumbrian breakfast made with locally-sourced ingredients – the perfect way to start our day of exploring the nearby Bamburgh Castle and the beautiful coastal village of Alnmouth. Filled with cosy cafes, golden beaches and England’s oldest nine-hole links golf course, Almouth really is a hidden gem, and just a short drive away from our next destination – the beautiful Eshott Hall, near Morpeth.

This 17th Century Georgian country house could have easily been the setting for many a period drama, and as we’re welcomed into the grand entrance hall by house manager Laura Blakey, it feels as though we’ve stumbled across something special.

Each of its 11 en-suite rooms are individually designed and luxuriously finished. Our home for the night, the Italian Room, even comes with a huge roll-top bath at the foot of the bed.

The elegant drawing room and library are open to anyone to relax, giving you the chance to get to know the other guests or enjoy pre-dinner drinks.

The food at Eshott Hall is fantastic, as I found out after a starter of potted Craster crab and smoked salmon with a crayfish and horseradish remoulade, a main course of guinea fowl breast, parmesan polenta croquette, wild mushrooms and a pea veloute and to finish, a selection of delicious homemade ice creams. Just like its larger sister hotel, Doxford Hall, every course was cooked to perfection and there wasn’t one mouthful that didn’t delight.

There was time to enjoy one final drink in the library with the guests we’d met earlier in the night before heading to bed.

A restful night and another fabulous Northumbrian breakfast later and there’s just enough time for a quick tour of the hotel before the weekend’s wedding party arrives. Unfortunately for us, brides at Eshott Hall have the option of exclusive use of the whole hotel, its grounds and all of its rooms, leaving us to reluctantly bid farewell and head back to reality – and to begin planning our return visit. THE dark of the North-East coast are shining bright this month as Whitby Abbey is dramatically illuminated. Using hundreds of coloured floodlights and LED lights, the illumination brings to light a new appreciation of the site’s heritage and role in Gothic Victorian life.

All lit-up: Whitby Abbey, illuminated for a Gothic celebration

Coinciding with the town’s Gothic weekend, this is the the first time that visitors to the abbey after dark can delve further into the site that inspired Bram Stoker’s Dracula as they wander around the lit ruins and explore the visitor centre.

Curious visitors should also steel themselves for encounters with characters from the past, bringing the Victorian preoccupation with the macabre to life. They can meet the Victorian Undertaker, hear tales of grave robbing and murders, discover the origins of the term “a good send off” and find out about the importance of jet in Victorian funeral paraphernalia.

Jon Hogan, events manager for English Heritage, says: “The Illuminated Abbey is a wonderful sight, every sweeping arch highlighted and each dark corner made all the darker. We will be exploring some of the darker stories from the Victorian era, but it is a very family friendly event, for curious children and adults alike.”

There are also ghostly half-term activities during the daytime at the abbey, with Time Travellers Go...Victorian Spooky Fun.

• Tickets for the Illuminated Abbey can be bought in advance by calling 0870-333-183 or on the day from the ticket office. The event is open from 6pm to 8.30pm from Wednesday, October 30 to Saturday, November 2. The price for English Heritage member is £4.50 for adults, £4 concessions and £2.50 children, or £5.50, £5 and £3.50 for non-members.

Daytime admission (11am to 4pm), from Saturday, October 26 to Sunday, November 3 is £6.40, £5.80 and £3.80, family £16.60 for non-members. Members admitted free, but there is a £1 additional charge for children taking part in Time Travellers activities.