Nestled between the infamous Normandy beaches and heralded Loire Valley, Mayenne is a little-heard of district in northern France.

But only a two-hour drive from the ports of Caen and St Malo, the quintessentially French destination is full of charm and unspoilt nature, marketed as France “like in the books”.

Sailings on Brittany Ferries take between seven and 12 hours, with overnight schedules a perfect way to make the most of holiday time in France.

Boutique hotel La Marjolaine provides beautiful riverside accommodation in the converted Chateau of Bas Mont, dating back as far as the sixth century and set in two hectares of grounds, just .

With an outdoor pool, indoor Jacuzzi and gourmet restaurant housed in the stunning buildings, guests almost have to drag themselves away.

Sitting on the terrace in the warm evenings or inside the decadent dining room, guests can enjoy La Marjolaine’s extensive menu, which offers traditional French dishes, including snail ravioli, pigeon and veal. And the crème brûlée dessert must be in line for an award for its sheer size alone.

Working off the meals is easy with the towpath running alongside the grounds. It is a short and easy descent among the goats hired from a local farmer to munch on the overgrowth – which sometimes like to wander from their dedicated plot – down to the tranquil River Mayenne and an 85km ribbon of green.

Popular with people who like to fish, the pike, trout, eels and perch aren’t the only wildlife in and along the river. Trees, plants, flowers, frogs and snakes are abundant, with roe deer, kingfishers, wagtails and moorhens also visible to the patient and well-trained eye.

The modest town of Mayenne straddles the river five kilometres to the north, accessible along the towpath on foot or by bicycle.

Stunning buildings reflect in the river below, with the Basilica of Notre-Dame and the chateau dominating the skyline.

A short walking history tour of the town, using a map available from the tourist information centre, encompasses the basilica, churches, chapel and a wealth of popular restaurants worth waiting for a table at.

Interactive displays inside the chateau are captivating. The local pride in the building is apparent in the efforts made to help people understand the building’s history, including light displays highlighting the architecture of the walls as the structure has provided different functions over the centuries.

Audio guides, encouragement to touch fossils on display and visual boards aimed at adults and children ensure visitors can understand the history and absorb the atmosphere.

The magnificent exterior of the building can be admired from the water. Electric boats are available to hire to explore up river, out of the town’s boundaries and into the surrounding countryside and its abundance of wildlife.

The Argus:

The tranquil waters are the perfect place to watch patient fishermen wait for a bite or sit back and enjoy the peace, with only the murmur of sheep and occasional fish surfacing to break the silence.

Elsewhere in the region of Mayenne, evidence of the Romans is visible in the small village of Jublains, the main Gallo-Roman site in western France. The open-air theatre stands complete with stone stalls and a flat central stage, utilising the natural curve of the hills to create the performance area where live shows are still held to this day.

The ancient settlement continues down the road, where visitors can explore the grounds of a remarkable fortress and see the jewellery, pottery and tools recovered from the area in the neighbouring archaeological museum.

There are also Roman public baths in excavations under the church and a temple on the outskirts of the village.

Medieval Sainte Suzanne is steeped in just as much history, with its original defensive ramparts almost entirely still in tact. Modern metal stairs and walkways enable visitors to climb to the heights of the structures and enjoy the views from the rocky outcrop, which proved impossible for William the Conqueror to overpower.

Classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France and a city of character, it is more charming than Jublains.

South along the river are the historic town Laval, rich with architecture and art, and Chateau-Gontier, with its narrow streets and tiny squares bordered with medieval houses.

On the latter town’s outskirts is Refuge de l’Arche, an animal sanctuary. Some of the creatures are rescued from extravagant owners whose wealth and desires screened the realities of keeping wild animals as pets. Others once performed in the circus or have served their purpose on farms. The one-eyed owl and one-winged vulture are among the animals found injured in the wild.

It is not a zoo but the public are welcomed in to help cover the costs of running the centre.

The some 1,600 animals range from exotic birds, a host of monkeys, bears and lions to cows, goats and, most surprisingly for anyone living by the seaside in the UK, seagulls.

Driving around the region, there are scores of hidden gems and venturing down side roads often reaps rewards, from tranquil lakes to stunning vistas or forests. Mayenne is a real treat to explore.

  • Brittany Ferries sail from Portsmouth to St Malo and Caen. Return channel crossings start from £110pp for a car and two passengers. For more information visit www.brittany-ferries.co.uk or call 0871 2441400.
  • For more information about La Marjolaine boutique hotel visit www.lamarjolaine.fr
  • For more details about things to do in the area visit www.mayenne-tourisme.com/en