Blanch House
Atlingworth Street, Brighton
01273 603504 www.blanchhouse.co.uk
Open Tues-Sun, 12:30pm-2:30pm and Tues-Sat, 7:00pm-10:00pm. Closed Mondays
Review: April 21, 2006
The discreet exterior means the uninitiated could walk past Blanch House without noticing it was there - yet its reputation both locally and, increasingly, throughout the whole country, means it's hardly in need of passing trade.
As well as a multi awardwinning bar, the ultra-stylish boutique hotel is renowned for its restaurant, whose adventurous menu stands out by toying with preconceived notions about food.
Deconstructing classic dishes and putting them back together with a playful sense of expertise has proved popular with diners since it opened five years ago, and head chef Justin Anderson is proving himself more than capable of maintaining the direction.
"He had been a soux chef with us previously," says owner Chris Edwards, "and he moved up a notch when the previous head chef left. So it was a big challenge but he's living up to it very well. He's a real success."
The food is locally sourced and organic where possible, with fish usually coming straight from local dryboats. Options on the dinner menu (£30 for three courses) include seared diver scallops with rocket mash and balsamic, and seared pigeon breast, served with Jerusalem artichokes, poached quail egg and black pudding dressing.
Among the mains, you'll find pan-fried seabass on saffron and chorizo risotto, pan-fried calves liver with crispy bacon, fondant potato, black pudding and tarragon sauce, and ravioli of butternut squash with oregano and blue cheese veloute. Lemon grass creme brulee with coconut biscuit, and chocolate tart with espresso ice cream are among the desserts on offer.
Given the formidable reputation of the Blanch House bar, it's not surprising the restaurant is also well known for its wine list, which combines a smattering of classics with some more unusual choices you are unlikely to see elsewhere.
"We try to make sure there are some names on the list that people will recognise," says Chris. "But we're also keen that we don't stock the same wines you'll find everywhere else."
Chris himself admits to a particular passion for dessert wines, so you can expect to find a few "weird and wonderful" options available in the hotel.
Yet despite this, the restaurant manages to maintain a relatively relaxed and informal atmosphere.
"We want to get past the notion that Blanch House is just a place for people to go at the weekend or for a special occasion," Chris says. "We'd like people to feel our restaurant is accessible to everyone. We think we provide great service but it definitely doesn't feel snobby."
This restaurant is participating in the Dine for £10 offer. For more information, click here
If you are interested in restaurants in Brighton, Hove and Sussex, visit www.theargusfoodguide.co.uk