Formerly The Marquess Of Exeter, this long-standing Brighton boozer has changed hands several times over the past few years.

Now Jackie Nairn (pictured below) has bought the place and transformed it from a grotty, smoky, drinking den into a spacious and stylish gastro-pub.

While The Marquess pulled in punters with a predilection for darts and snooker, The Chimney House is more about fine wine and dining.

It's relaxed and informal but comfortable and classy, too, and should appeal to a broad range of people from families to young professionals.

Jackie, ex-operations manager for the various Tate Gallery restaurants throughout the UK, bought the pub at the end of last year after seeing it for sale on the internet.

"We completely gutted it," says Jackie. "I can't describe what a state it was in. It was very enclosed with a horrible vinyl film on all the windows and a filthy old carpet. We got rid of four or five skip-loads of rubbish in the end and did all the painting and decorating ourselves."

A far cry from the bland corporate offerings which plague the city, The Chimney House has bags of character and a warm, welcoming atmosphere.

Set on the corner of Upper Hamilton Road and Exeter Street it's an interesting shape and takes its name from the unusual, four stacked chimneys on the roof. "They are quite fabulous," says Jackie.

The interior is refreshingly simple with an attractive combination of traditional and contemporary furnishings. A feeling of space is created with an open kitchen at the back and a central bar. It's a modern pub which feels like a cosy old local with cream walls, stripped-pine floorboads, mellow lighting, ornate mirrors and some reclaimed furniture, including a couple of antique leather chairs.

Although the pub operates a no-smoking policy, there is a small patio at the back which accommodates smokers. "It's a bit bare at the moment but we want to add an awning, tall poser tables and heating lamps as soon as possible," says Jackie.

"We don't want to alienate smokers but we want to be family-friendly. We also have an open kitchen and are very food-focused so a smoky environment just wouldn't be hygienic."

The Chimney House prides itself on its excellent wine list, which has been compiled by wine expert Hamish Anderson, columnist and author of wine book, Vino.

There are several organic choices including a delicious, strawberry-scented rose (2005 Syrah, £2.95 a glass) and a zippy organic Argentinian white, 2004 Chenin Blanc (£2.95 a glass).

The house red, 2004 Bonarda/Sangiovesa is also organic and good value at £11 a bottle (£2.95 a glass).

The menu changes daily with a varied selection of modern British dishes such as boiled ham and poached hen's egg with green beans, shallots and parsley (£4.50), seared goat's cheese with chargrilled vegetables on toast (£3.95/£6.50) and lemon-baked chicken breast with puntalette, whole garlic and cherry tomatoes (£8.75).

Desserts include peach and almond tart (£3.95) and bread and butter pudding with creme anglais (£3.95).

"The food is simple, rustic, fresh and good value," says Jackie. "Ingredients are sourced locally wherever possible."

And if you just fancy popping in for a quiet cuppa, afternoon tea and fresh coffee is also available daily (except Sundays and Mondays), with homemade treats including lemon drizzle cake (£1.30), white chocolate and berry muffins (70p) and plain or fruit scones with homemade jam and clotted cream (£1.30).

Freshly-squeezed orange juice is available on request (£2.25) as well as a range of pricey but delicious organic drinks such as apple and quince juice, elderflower presse and ginger beer (£2.75).

Review by Xenia Gregoriadis