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Copacabana
Queen's Road, Brighton
01273 321320


Open daily 11.30am-11pm

Review: March 10, 2006

Copacabana

It may be a long way from South America – but a new cafe/bar between Brighton Station and the seafront is proving to be a little reminder of home to many of the city’s Brazilian community. Positioned in one of the city’s busiest roads, Copacabana is an oasis of calm.

Ricardo Tahan (pictured), the establishment’s manager, says he wanted to create a friendly atmosphere where people could relax and enjoy Brazilian culture.

He obviously hit the right note because more than 50 per cent of his customers are from his homeland – in fact, Brighton and Hove has one of the largest Brazilian communities in the country.

Ricardo comes from a family of restaurateurs andhis mother ran a pasta-making business. So running a cafe/bar comes naturally to him.

The decor at Copacabana is simple, with bright colours and posters on the walls to remind people of home, including scenes of Rio, Brazilia, carnival and football.

With just 24 covers it is easy for Ricardo to maintain a friendly atmosphere and get to know his customers. During the recent World Cup the cafe was a sort of unofficial meeting place for Brazilian supporters.

The menu features a number of traditional dishes, including the popular coxinha, which is deep-fried potato dough with chicken filling. Recipes for coxinha vary across Brazil and Ricardo, who comes from Sao Paola province, says his recipe is the best – and his customers agree.

Another big favourite is Caipirinha, a traditional cocktail that has become a real hit with Brazilians in Brighton.

Its ingredients include a quartered lime, sugar, a shot of cachaca (liqueur made from sugarcane) and ice.

For a change of pace and a new style of cuisine Copacabana is worth a visit.

Review by Keith Winsper

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