High Street, Shoreham.
01273 463500

Open noon-11pm daily.
Food served noon-2.30pm, then
7pm-9.30pm and Sunday noon-5pm.

Review: November 24, 2006

In their continuing quest to keep things real, the owners of muchloved hostelries The Bull in Ditchling and The Dover Castle and Sir Charles Napier in Hanover, Brighton, have expanded their mini-empire.

Their latest venture is the Crown and Anchor, which, thanks to the eyecatching giant pirate overlooking the High Street, is a bit of a landmark. When Dominic Worrall and Jeremy Martin, of Compass Bars, bought the pub in the summer, they contemplated getting rid of the pirate – but after consulting locals, decided the 12ft figurehead should stay.

“It turns out it was made in 1931 and is a solid wooden sculpture,” says Dominic. “The sculptor was from Brighton and his daughter is now in her 80s and lives on Shoreham Beach.”

In refurbishing the establishment, Dominic and Jeremy wanted to make it more accessible and give it a relaxed, contemporary feel, while retaining the charm of a traditional pub.

Antique furniture, drapes, flowers and candles have all been brought in to make things cosy and comfy and the pub now has a non-smoking rule.

“Shoreham has received good investment, from multi-million pound developments to independent businesses such as ourselves and we’re thrilled to be part of that regeneration as we feel the area deserved more,” says Dominic.

Compass’s other bars are known for their good food and ale and Dominic is confident this reputation will extend to the Crown and Anchor. On offer are four cask ales, three Continental lagers and eight wines.

The menu, described as “new British Mediterranean” is constantly changing but will always include old favourites like fillet steak and fish and chips. Other dishes could include pork tenderloin with roasted figs and apricot mash (£13), butternut squash, stilton and pine nut parcel (£10) and lamb and fresh mint burger (£10.50).

“We aspire to be a pub that sells fantastic food, so everything is cooked from scratch,” says Dominic. Most ingredients are locally sourced; the fish comes from Shoreham and Newhaven, all veg is from Hurstpierpoint and game comes from the Balcombe Estate, Haywards Heath.

“We don’t have a specials board – instead of chalking out the board we change the menu.”

A permanent fixture, however, will be Sussex Pond Pudding, which dates back to the 17th Century. Dominic and Jeremy hit headlines recently when it was discovered their pubs were among the few remaining eateries still serving the traditional steamed pudding.

Review by Leilah Nicola

If you are interested in restaurants in Brighton, Hove and Sussex, visit www.theargusfoodguide.co.uk