Princes Place, Brighton
01273 710123

Open Mon-Sat noon-3pm, then 5pm-10.30pm. Sun noon-5pm.

Review: September 22, 2006

So many French dishes to sample, so little time. This is why Decorum has opted to change its menu once a week..

But, so as not to limit itself, it’s adding its own distinctly British twist, opening up a whole new realm of dining possibilities. For instance, the classic chicken liver parfait is served with a red onion jam. .

“We are not French, our chef isn’t French and we’re not using French ingredients, so to call ourselves a French restaurant would be wrong,” says owner Paul McCrystal. .

“We’re calling it French food with an English accent. It’s inspired by fairly classic dishes, but adding other influences gives us more scope.” .

The menu is designed to be simple, with a choice of three starters, six mains and three desserts at any one time. “We try to think of something for everybody, so there’s generally a meat dish, a fish dish and a vegetarian, as well as soup and salad,” says Paul.

There is also a brunch menu (served at weekends only) and a carefully selected wine menu, which Paul put together to give a good example of each variety and to “go across the board but not overload”. .

“Hopefully people will learn something. When I was told a glass of Riesling with asparagus was superb I didn’t believe them – until I tried it and they were absolutely right. “I deliberately haven’t put on a huge mark-up on the more expensive wines because I want people to actually try them and sample them with their food.” .

Right next to the Royal Pavilion Gardens, Paul wanted to give the restaurant a courtyard feel. With tiled floors, white walls, ornate statues and frosted windows, it’s serene and relaxed. .

“It’s calm and peaceful. It possibly looks formal but it is certainly not designed to feel that way. We want people to enjoy themselves and not be intimidated. We want to provide entertainment as well as good food and relaxation.