Food is fresh, seasonal and locally sourced. Afternoon tea is served up the old-fashioned way – in a pot, with a strainer and a slice of cake.

Thanks to the owners’ culinary sense of adventure, which is tempered with experience – Glenda Fiala used to manage Nia Cafe in Brighton’s North Laine, while her husband Malik has been head chef at Middle Eastern restaurant Momo in London, as well as local restaurants Thalassa and Saucy – you are just as likely to find Rosewater Victoria Sponge and Orchid Tea on the menu, as Carrot Cake and Earl Grey.

The cafe, named after Glenda’s grandmother, is designed to make people feel relaxed and at home, “like they are having tea and cake in somebody’s kitchen,” says Glenda.

“Ethel always took great pride in her cooking and in particular her baking. She took great pleasure in feeding her family.

“In this era of take-aways and ready meals we are hoping Ethel’s Kitchen will encourage people to celebrate home cooking with fresh ingredients, and offer people a decent no-fuss option even while they are out for the day.”

The current menu includes potato rosti topped with spinach, melted Sussex buttercup cheese and poached egg (£5.50) and homemade burger with caramelised onion relish served with homemade chips (£5.95).

Children are well catered for with a special Mini Munchies menu for smaller appetites, with a range of options including eggy bread dipped in muscovado sugar (£1) and toasted banana sandwiches (£1.20).

Organic fair-trade coffee, fresh juices and smoothies, all day breakfasts and Sunday roasts are all available. Ethel would be proud.

Review by Xenia Gregoriadis

• If you are interested in restaurants in Brighton, Hove and Sussex, visit www.theargusfoodguide.co.uk