For three years, Moroccan bar and
restaurant Nou Nou offered an
authentic taste of North Africa in the
heart of Kemp Town.
But its French owner Pascal Madjoudj has
finally decided to close the exotic venue.
Pascal, who also owns Brighton’s French
restaurant La Fourchette on Western Road, has
now re-opened the venue under the new name
of La Fourchette Kemp Town.
The venue will preserve its exotic decor and
will still offer a limited menu of North African
specialities, but Pascal will be focusing his
attentions predominantly on his speciality
– French cuisine.
“I lost the passion for Nou Nou,” he admits.
“Although I grew up in North Africa, my heart
and expertise is in French cooking. I had to rely
on others to cook the Moroccan and Lebanese
dishes, which were difficult for me.
“I haven’t cooked for three years because
I have been busy running La Fourchette
restaurant and La Fourchette Patisserie in
Hove, but now I’ll be in the kitchen of
La Fourchette Kemp Town. I can’t wait.”
Pascal admits Nou Nou’s North African menu
wasn’t pulling in the punters during the week,
although tables were booked up at weekends.
“It is not in British people’s culture to go to
North African restaurants all the time,” he
says. “People are much more likely to go out
regularly for French cuisine and now they will
have the choice.”
Pascal has kept his Lebanese chef to serve up
four of the most popular North African dishes
on the menu, including Nou Nou’s best-seller,
barania of lamb tagine cooked with 25 spices.
“I love this dish so I couldn’t lose it,” says
Pascal. “The lamb shank is braised in the oven
for three hours with cinnamon, apricot and
sweet spices, so the meat gets nice and tender
and the juices provide a full flavour.”
But the rest of the Moroccan menu will be
stopped to make way for Pascal’s popular
French creations.
“I’ll be doing foie gras, confit duck and
cassoulet – all classic French dishes,” he says.
“But my signature dish will be head of fillet
steak served with wild mushrooms, pommes
Lyonnaise and Bearnaise sauce. I roast the
steak with garlic, onion, thyme and olive oil and
cook it so the outside is crunchy but the inside
is almost raw – it’s delicious.”
Fans of Nou Nou’s authentic Morrocan decor
– a souvenir from Pascal’s childhood – will be
pleased to know it is staying, as is the venue’s
cosy Morrocan bar, Kemia.
“We’re trying to create the best of both
worlds,” Pascal explains. “French food is always
popular but when summer comes, we’ll have
a North African barbecue with spicy chicken
and lamb, Lebanese rice, spicy potatoes and
Lebanese salad served on the terrace.”
A £7 lunchtime menu will also be offered
serving up everything from navarin of veal
with rice to veggie cous cous, until 4pm.
Review by Sureka Fernando
If you are interested in restaurants in Brighton, Hove and Sussex, visit www.theargusfoodguide.co.uk