Madeira Drive, Brighton. 01273 696207

Open daily, 11am-11pm

Review: March 10, 2006

With over 430 Brewer's Fayres across the country, news of another opening in Brighton has hardly caused a stir.

But this latest addition sees the Whitbread-owned chain updating its usual formula. Customers can expect to be pleasantly surprised.

Assistant manager Julia Martin explains: "Compared to our other branches, The Madeira is geared towards a more grown-up market.

"The company is trying something new. It is a big step for us but it is a concept which suits the area and feels right for the times.

The childrens' play areas have gone," she continues, "so you won't find kids left to their own devices for hours and running riot around the place. Customers are greeted at the door, and seated, and rather than ordering at the bar we now offer table service. It is a more sophisticated Brewer's Fayre."

The Madeira is also tastefully decorated. "There is still essence of pub," says Julia, "but garish Seventies-style carpets have been largely replaced with wooden floors. There are plenty of sofas too and a number of 'boutique' rooms - some of which have fantastic views of the seafront - for parties looking for a bit of privacy."

So far the response from has been positive. "Many customers have been surprised that it is a Brewer's Fayre at all," says Julia. "There has been a great response to the food as well, especially with the new emphasis on freshly-cooked food."

Along with traditional pub grub such as Highland cottage pie and Brewer's Fayre's award-winning sausage 'n' mash served in a giant Yorkshire pudding, a range of new dishes is now available including strawberry and mango salad with bacon and chicken, salmon risotto and slow cooked lamb.

Review by Katherine McGlinchey

• If you are interested in restaurants in Brighton, Hove and Sussex, visit www.theargusfoodguide.co.uk