"There is so much more
to Japanese food than
just raw fish.”
These are the words of Brighton’s
own Norman Cook (aka Fatboy Slim)
who has recently gone into partnership
with Japanese restauranteur Mike
Dodd to bring this renowned
restaurant to central Brighton.
“Some people think Japanese food
can seem a bit frightening when you
don’t really know what to expect,”
he adds. “But I have been a regular
customer of Oki-Nami for years, as well
as making regular trips to Japan,
so I have become a bit of an aficionado.
It made sense to get involved
with Mike’s new venture.”
For the past 13 years, Oki-Nami has
offered Hove’s residents an authentic
taste of Japan in minimalist
surroundings, but now, thanks to the
capital of Norman and the inspiration
of Mike, the duo have re-located
to the heart of Brighton.
Situated a few doors down from the
Theatre Royal on the site of a Georgian
listed building (what once was
Valentino’s and before that the famous
Blue Parrot), the new restaurant and
cocktail bar is spread across two floors
linked by a stylish spiral staircase.
The first floor cocktail bar offers
prime views of Brighton’s Pavilion
Gardens with Eastern twists on Western cocktails using Japanese ingredients.
Some of the tempting offerings
include Japanese Cherry Blossom
Margarita and Cucumber Martiki
(saki, gin, creme de lychee).
But it is the ground floor restaurant’s
sushi, sashimi, tapas plates and larger
chargrilled and sizzling platters that
will be the biggest draw for those
wanting an authentic taste of Japan.
Mike prides himself on his fresh
sushi creations featuring salmon,
tuna, prawn and shrimp, which led
to Oki-Nami recently being named one
of the top five sushi restaurants in the
UK by the Observer Food monthly.
Mike also serves up an array
of imaginative tapas dishes including
Yasai Gyoza (dumplings filled with
cabbage, onions and carrots served
with sesame dipping sauce, £4.30)
and more substantial offerings such
as Gyu wafu teri (fillet steak served
on a sizzle platter with teriyaki
sauce and braised vegetables, £17.85).
But Mike’s signature dish is the rolloff-
the-tongue Suzuki Saffron (£17.50).
“It is a fusion of Japanese and
Persian cooking as my wife is Persian,” says Mike. “It’s wild, grilled seabass
served with a Japanese citrus and
saffron sauce and braised seasonal
vegetables. It’s a combination of fresh,
clean flavours that embody what
Japanese cooking is all about.”
Oki-Nami’s timber-clad 100-seater
restaurant features custom handmade
oak and leather furniture, calligraphyinscribed
Japanese lanterns and
specially commissioned Japanese art.
“It is a very traditional style
of Japanese landscape art but done
with a quirky, funky twist which
reflects our ethos as a restaurant,” says
Mike. “Japanese cooking techniques
are very rigid and precise and we are
passionate about offering an authentic
taste of Japan, while also keeping the
atmosphere fresh and unpretentious.
“Norman has provided exclusive
music for the restaurant to enhance
this atmosphere.”
Norman adds: “I really want
everyone who eats at Oki-Nami to have
the same experience I have had
as a beginner learning about Japanese
food, through to a supposed Japaphile.
“I still enjoy experiencing new dishes
– some of which I can’t pronounce!”
Review by Sureka Fernando
If you are interested in restaurants in Brighton, Hove and Sussex, visit www.theargusfoodguide.co.uk