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Oki-Nami
New Road, Brighton, 01273 773777

Open Monday to Sunday 12pm to 11pm

Review: May 2, 2008

Oki-Nami

"There is so much more to Japanese food than just raw fish.”

These are the words of Brighton’s own Norman Cook (aka Fatboy Slim) who has recently gone into partnership with Japanese restauranteur Mike Dodd to bring this renowned restaurant to central Brighton.

“Some people think Japanese food can seem a bit frightening when you don’t really know what to expect,” he adds. “But I have been a regular customer of Oki-Nami for years, as well as making regular trips to Japan, so I have become a bit of an aficionado.

It made sense to get involved with Mike’s new venture.”

For the past 13 years, Oki-Nami has offered Hove’s residents an authentic taste of Japan in minimalist surroundings, but now, thanks to the capital of Norman and the inspiration of Mike, the duo have re-located to the heart of Brighton.

Situated a few doors down from the Theatre Royal on the site of a Georgian listed building (what once was Valentino’s and before that the famous Blue Parrot), the new restaurant and cocktail bar is spread across two floors linked by a stylish spiral staircase.

The first floor cocktail bar offers prime views of Brighton’s Pavilion Gardens with Eastern twists on Western cocktails using Japanese ingredients. Some of the tempting offerings include Japanese Cherry Blossom Margarita and Cucumber Martiki (saki, gin, creme de lychee).

But it is the ground floor restaurant’s sushi, sashimi, tapas plates and larger chargrilled and sizzling platters that will be the biggest draw for those wanting an authentic taste of Japan.

Mike prides himself on his fresh sushi creations featuring salmon, tuna, prawn and shrimp, which led to Oki-Nami recently being named one of the top five sushi restaurants in the UK by the Observer Food monthly.

Mike also serves up an array of imaginative tapas dishes including Yasai Gyoza (dumplings filled with cabbage, onions and carrots served with sesame dipping sauce, £4.30) and more substantial offerings such as Gyu wafu teri (fillet steak served on a sizzle platter with teriyaki sauce and braised vegetables, £17.85).

But Mike’s signature dish is the rolloff- the-tongue Suzuki Saffron (£17.50). “It is a fusion of Japanese and Persian cooking as my wife is Persian,” says Mike. “It’s wild, grilled seabass served with a Japanese citrus and saffron sauce and braised seasonal vegetables. It’s a combination of fresh, clean flavours that embody what Japanese cooking is all about.”

Oki-Nami’s timber-clad 100-seater restaurant features custom handmade oak and leather furniture, calligraphyinscribed Japanese lanterns and specially commissioned Japanese art.

“It is a very traditional style of Japanese landscape art but done with a quirky, funky twist which reflects our ethos as a restaurant,” says Mike. “Japanese cooking techniques are very rigid and precise and we are passionate about offering an authentic taste of Japan, while also keeping the atmosphere fresh and unpretentious.

“Norman has provided exclusive music for the restaurant to enhance this atmosphere.”

Norman adds: “I really want everyone who eats at Oki-Nami to have the same experience I have had as a beginner learning about Japanese food, through to a supposed Japaphile.

“I still enjoy experiencing new dishes – some of which I can’t pronounce!”

Review by Sureka Fernando

  • If you are interested in restaurants in Brighton, Hove and Sussex, visit www.theargusfoodguide.co.uk
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