Buckingham Place, Brighton
01273 888911www.sevendialsrestaurant.co.uk

Review: May 26, 2006

Open Monday to Friday noon-3pm and 7pm-10pm, Saturday noon-3pm and 7pm-10.30pm, Sunday 12pm to 5pm

There is something imposing about Sevendials restaurant. Housed in a former bank building with heavy wooden doors and high-set windows, this award-winning restaurant has a no-nonsense style of decor and, from the outside, looks very serious. Don't let that put you off.

Venture inside and you will find a light and airy, now completely smoke-free interior, friendly staff and a relaxed atmosphere ideal for maximum enjoyment of good food, wine and company.

You can easily while away three or four hours, especially if it's warm enough to sit outside on the Summer Terrace.

Since it opened five years ago, Sevendials has earned a string of accolades, including two AA Rosettes and inclusion in numerous national good food guides, drawing foodies from far beyond the city limits.

The modern European menu, which changes every six weeks, is rich, luxurious and inventive. Duck fat fried chips sex up the steak. Half a dozen oysters slip down a treat with shallot vinegar and tabasco. Chocolate is matched with cappucino to create a gorgeous creme brulee.

Most ingredients are seasonal, organic, GMfree and sourced largely from Sussex and Kent farms and fisheries. Fresh herbs are grown in the restuarant's own herb garden – a feature of the Terrace.

For anyone watching their money and/or their waistline however, the minimum twocourse set menu has, in the past, proved prohibitive. For this reason, owner and head chef Sam Metcalfe and his team have introduced a new and varied a la carte menu, mixing it up with more choice for vegetarians, and healthier options.

It is designed especially to appeal to the casual, frequent diner as well as those wishing to splurge on a two or three-course meal to celebrate a special occasion.

"Successful established restaurants listen to their customers, study changes in consumer lifestyle and move with the times," says Sam.

"We listened, studied and read the press and we are acting on our observations."

Now with starters and desserts from £5 and mains from £10, customers have the freedom to choose just one, two or three courses to suit their budget, their time constraints, mood and appetite.

There is also a convenient Sevendials Fast Track Lunch Menu (£10) which guarantees lunch in an hour, with tea or coffee included.

Sam hopes the new format menu will encourage diners to drop in on a more casual basis, particularly during the week.

"Our pricing and menu structure have changed," he says, "but the quality of our food and attentiveness of our staff will always remain."

Sample the menu

Starters

Pumpkin, spinach and ricotta ravioli with a vine tomato fondue, £6
Dorset crab cake on a spring salad with a mango, lime, chilli and coriander salsa, £11
Blood orange, beetroot and Sussex Stonegate soft goats' cheese salad, £7

Mains

Asparagus and broad bean risotto with sauteed wild garlic leaves and char-grilled haloumi, £10

Free range chicken, ham, leek and mushroom pie with spring greens and new potato champ, £12
Roast herb crusted rack of South Down lamb with minted new potatoes, garlic and parsley beans, rosemary gravy (for two to share) £30

Puddings

Hot Valrhona chocolate fondue with fresh fruits and marshmallows (for two to share) £9
Jasmine tea panacotta with macerated summer berries and a ginger sugar snap, £6
Strawberries with Devonshire clotted cream and shortbread biscuit, £6

Review by Xenia Gregoriadis

This restaurant is participating in the Dine for £10 offer. For more information, click here

• If you are interested in restaurants in Brighton, Hove and Sussex, visit www.theargusfoodguide.co.uk