The late Thomas Kemp was the 19th-century property developer and politician who conceived and financed the Regency Kemp Town estate. It is a fitting tribute then that this smart bar restaurant in the heart of the area should be named after such a significant figure.

Formerly Polar East, the new Thomas Kemp is an attractive and spacious place with a beer garden, dining area and lounge bar filled with comfy leather sofas. While the interior is tastefully decorated in neutral, earthy tones, the old maps pasted on the walls, the bright orange menus and shining coat of armour in the corner of the bar give the place a unique flavour. Food is a mix of reasonably priced, traditional pub grub and more imaginative dishes.

Sunday roasts and seafood specials such as tuna steak served with sweet potato chips and home-made chilli and garlic mayonnaise, meet more exotic fare such as lentil, coconut and lime pickle curry, Moroccan meatballs and meat and veggie meze to share.

Armenian manager Talin Sellian, formerly of Zuma in Seven Dials, has a performance background and a passion for fusing art and entertainment with food and drink. While it’s still early days, an open mic night on Sundays, DJs at the weekend, a fondness for reggae and klezmer music and an exhibition space should encourage a mixed, bohemian crowd.

The past few years have seen the popularity of cider soar. You will find a good selection here with cloudy scrumpy Old Rosie on tap, bottles of Brothers, the Glastonbury Festival favourite’s mellow pear brew, and Kopparberg.

Real ales include Bombadier and Harvey’s, with soft drinks including real coffee and chai.

Not to be missed are the mouthwatering meringues made by Talin’s mum and served up with ice cream, fruit and chocolate shavings.

The chef’s peach and apple crumble is also a hightlight.

Review by Xenia Gregoriadis

• If you are interested in restaurants in Brighton, Hove and Sussex, visit www.theargusfoodguide.co.uk