REVIEW

Gar's, Brighton

YOUR favourite Chinese takeaway will never taste the same again.

Gar’s is a little bit special, but still delivers what we’ve become accustomed to as traditional Chinese cuisine.

Nestled in the heart of The Lanes, its towering building has been turned into an Asian haven - and that’s before any food has been brought out.

It is stylish, spacious and sophisticated and my guest and I were guided to the best table in the house – a first-floor window seat, slightly spoiled by the scaffolding blocking the view of Prince Albert Street.

Our host suggested a selection – and I’m glad we left the decision to him, because he and his chefs nailed it.

First came a starter platter of sweet and sticky barbecue ribs, salty and crispy fried squid, classic chicken satay skewers, soy-served scallops and prawn toast – which unlike most was actually bursting with prawns.

If your standard takeaway order was Primark, this was a plate of Prada.

Next came duck pancakes, and though hard to get wrong, these were absolutely stunning.

The added extra was the duck being shredded in front of us, which ensured the meat remained succulent and didn’t fade into a crispy, salty mess.

Already bursting at the seams, when the mains came out, suddenly there was plenty of space for more.

Sizzling steak in a black-bean sauce, a sweet chilli king prawn dish, noodles and egg fried rice all came out and not much went back.

After more than three decades in the business, it’s reassuring to know restaurants like this still strive for perfection.

On weekends the basement becomes a lively function room where guests can grab the mic and destroy covers of their favourite songs on karaoke.

But this is a place for food first and foremost.

Chinese food too often means scoffing on the sofa from takeaway trays.

Think again, because Gar’s is special.

Be warned though, if you eat here, the chances are your future orders from the “Golden something Garden” will leave you feeling a bit underwhelmed.

Gar’s
19 Prince Albert Street,
Brighton
01273 321321