MUCH change has occurred in Brighton and Hove’s food scene over the past ten years and with new additions and developments on the cards in 2017, now is a very exciting time for diners in the city.

I’ve been catching up with colleagues in the restaurant industry to discover why they think Brighton is such a food hub and what their thoughts are on what the future holds.

Obviously as a tourism-based economy, the city has a much more extensive food and hospitality offering than other UK cities of a similar size.

And while we have many of the usual restaurant chains, our listed heritage town centre has also helped incubate a growth in independents.

Most seem to agree that a significant part of the success of the restaurant scene is the melding of consumers and chefs.

Ben McKellar, pictured inset above, of the Gingerman Group, said: “Brighton people are always willing to try and embrace new ideas with food and drink which allows chefs, restaurateurs and food producers time to improve their product.

“Even ten years ago customers were willing to eat unusual cuts of meat – brains, oxtail, tongue, bone marrow, hearts – which are now fairly mainstream but back then were very risqué.”

Euan Sey, partner at the award-winning Curry Leaf Café, said: “The population has travelled more widely than any other bar London’s, so they really understand and appreciate good food – we were really surprised how many of our customers at the cafe have toured India.”

Aoife Sweeney, of La Choza, thinks that Brighton’s success has been a knock-on of its proximity to London and is part of a wider national trend. She said: “I think Brighton has a spill down from London and food has progressed in the UK in the last few years. Also people here are pretty open minded to trying new things.”

One of the next places to watch is Steven Edwards’ new Etch restaurant in Church Road, Hove. He is perhaps one of two chefs, along with Michael Bremner of 64 Degrees, most likely to gain the first Michelin star for the city in the near future.

“I think Hove is catching up nicely with its Brighton neighbour with Steven Edwards’ new restaurant,” said Ben, who is also shortly opening a boutique hotel above the Ginger Pig in Hove Street.

St James’s Street and George Street are also hot tickets. “Kemp Town village is expanding like wild fire with an old school vibe of local independents along one road all specialising in great produce and customer service, with more restaurants opening up alongside,” said Cassie Gould of Butler’s Wine Cellar.

Kanthi Kiran Thamma and Euan Sey recently opened their new Curry Leaf Café Kemp Town Kitchen in Upper St James’s Street and the much-anticipated Pike and Pine, headed by chef Matt Gillan, will be revealed at the Redroaster shortly.

The redevelopment of the Open Market in London Road has driven the regeneration of that area with independent food and drink businesses such as Semolina and La Choza joining long-established outlets like Bardsleys and the World’s End.

However, as Olivia Reid of Terre à Terre points out: “I think central Brighton, East Street, The Lanes and North Laine are still the most vibrant foodie areas, especially for visitors. With weekend pedestrianisation of some areas there is so much room for more street food and outdoor dining.”

Brighton has also benefited from access to promotional opportunities and grass-roots creativity in food and drink, often driven by passionate Brightonians: guest chefs showcasing pop-ups in unusual venues, home chefs hosting supper clubs, restaurants participating in a plethora of local and national food award schemes, farmers markets and produce hubs, and of course the Brighton and Hove Food and Drink Festival.

“It has always been a food city but great awareness events such as the food festival and supper clubs have kept it at the front,” said Karl Jones of Moshimo.

Behind the kitchen pass, it’s not all positive though. Restaurants across the UK are suffering from a lack of both kitchen and service staff, with Brighton particularly affected due to the high cost of living and competition for housing. I can hear the cry of the Living Wage brigade, however in most hospitality businesses, margins are incredibly tight so while staff may get extras such as staff meals, tips, uniform laundry and flexible working hours, the ability to pay significantly more without immediate increases in revenue and profit – which ultimately the consumer will cover in higher prices – means that this isn’t a viable commercial option.

And there is the issue of the sheer quality of staff coming into the workplace. Tertiary education in catering and hospitality in our region is regarded by colleagues as generally poor. Though quality restaurants respect the fact that they need to invest in the new generation of chefs, they are often woefully let down by local and Government apprenticeship schemes.

Chef Tom Griffiths, who will open Pascere in the city later this year, is concerned about the impact of Brexit on the cost of food and also the ethical and environmental standards of food if the UK no longer has to abide by the high criteria set by the EU. He said: “Over the course of the next five years the most fundamental rule is to really make the produce everything. Ultimately it is the heart of our industry and without it we have no future.”

The “coffeefication” of The Lanes and North Laine may be to its ultimate detriment as independent retail is pushed out for more of the same hot drinks, pastries and toasted sandwiches. There is still much work to do on seafront regeneration – particularly the Madeira Terraces where the opportunity to create a food and drink driven experience for both visitors and residents offers real potential.

The redevelopment of Churchill Square is welcomed. However, we need to be cautious that there won’t be a displacement of customers to the detriment of The Lanes, North Laine and the likes of London Road.

“There will be more chain restaurants, for sure,” said Euan Sey. “A lot of the big players are desperate to get a foothold in what is a very high- profile market down here.”

The trend in spending habits of millennials should also not be ignored. For 20 and 30-somethings dining outside the home has become an everyday occurrence.

Ms Reid said: “We are enjoying a good period. The millennials have changed eating out over the last five to ten years, reflected in business growth. But will this remain?”

I’m a passionate champion of the food economy of Brighton and Hove and Sussex. From steering the twice-yearly Brighton and Hove Food and Drink Festival, the loudest national voice for commercial food in the city, to our International Chef Exchange, which has seen us partner and cross-promote with chefs, restaurants, tourist boards and other food festivals from Canada to Sicily, wherever I go I can be confident that our offering stands up to some of the best of the world. I’m confident that despite the negatives, Brighton and Hove has a delicious future ahead.

The Brighton and Hove Food and Drink Festival runs from May 18 to 29 and includes three free entry days on Hove Lawns. For more visit brightonfoodfestival.com.