With December’s announcements that chef Matt Gillan is calling time on his Pike and Pine concept and the closure of the acclaimed Pascere after less than 18 months, Nick Mosley takes a look at the state of Brighton’s restaurant scene.

In 2018 we saw a huge number of high-profile chain restaurant closures, from the seemingly unstoppable Jamie Oliver empire through to the once ubiquitous burger joints of GBK and Byron.

Restaurants, whether multiples or independents, run on very tight margins so there has been something of a perfect storm brewing when it comes to their bottom line.

It’s sad to see Matt Gillan move on from Pike and Pine in St James’s Street, but I can see that running two dining concepts out of one venue was a significant challenge, even for such an accomplished chef.

Equally the announcement that Pascere in Duke Street was to close after just 17 months was a shock to many, especially after such high acclaim in the national press, but despite being in a great location I suspect the opening of The Ivy around the corner did it no favours. But it’s not all bad news. With the imminent opening of the new Hannington Lane, Brighton’s long-established Gingerman Group is launching a new bar and restaurant.

Ben and Pamela McKellar have hit upon a winning formula for their restaurants and gastropubs and I have no doubt that’s due to their hard work and sacrifices.

The team behind Redroaster and Lucky Beach are looking to open a funky Thai barbecue venue and Brighton’s The Chilli Pickle recently opened its second venue in Guildford.

Call me a Remoaner – I’m out and proud on that one – but the significant fall in the value of sterling since the referendum has had major implications for restaurateurs, perhaps more than any other industry. The cost of imported ingredients has gone up – and also of animal feed for British farmers which then affects the cost of meat. Meanwhile UK consumers are feeling the pinch so spending less on dining out, pushing many restaurants to create offers and discounts at a time when they need that like a hole in the head.

Staffing is a perennial problem. Unlike with young people in the UK, hospitality is seen as a valid and respected career path by our European neighbours, and we have all benefited from the skills and dedication they have brought.

Brexit has not only seen some in our industry head for home due to feeling uncertain about their futures but also because the pound is no longer worth what it was when compared against the euro or Polish zloty.

There has also been a significant decline in migrants moving here to fill roles as baristas, kitchen staff and the like, so we are losing staff from our industry but fresh talent isn’t coming in to replace it.

Business rates and retail unit rents on the high street have also been on the rise, so it was pleasing to see the Chancellor looking to address that in November’s budget, but for some businesses it will be a case of too little, too late.

Brighton poses unique opportunities and challenges for hospitality businesses. The reason why our independent restaurant scene is down to the impracticality of the retail spaces for chain restaurants who tend to want a minimum of 70 covers.

Brighton is predominantly a visitor economy which furnishes a great offering for residents but creates challenges for restaurateurs in terms of seasonality and weekday trade. Many people who live and work here simply don’t have the money to dine out weekly.

The bigger threat to the success of our independent restaurant scene are likely to come from the forthcoming major infrastructure developments. I have no doubt Churchill Square will be looking at increasing the experiential and lifestyle offering of the mall with more restaurants and concepts such as a street food hall.

And don’t be sold too much on the “vision” for the Madeira Terrace with its promenade of shops and restaurants. Creating a whole new retail and hospitality quarter in the city without any promise of significant increases in visitor spend, or wage rises for locals, could be incredibly disruptive to areas such as London Road and Western Road.

So what does the future hold? In recent years the city has become a great gastronomic destination led by talents such as Michael Bremner, Duncan Ray, Dave Mothersill and Steven Edwards. The city will continue to attract new blood and new ideas, some of which will succeed and some will unfortunately fall by the wayside.