Ian Swainson, the former head chef of The Pass at South Lodge near Horsham, recently launched a new pop-up dining concept in Brighton, writes Nick Mosley

AMARILLO runs on Friday and Saturday evenings at the funky Lost in the Lanes café, tucked away in Nile Street in central Brighton, and features a menu of sharing dishes inspired by flavours from around the world.

Ian Swainson has quite a culinary pedigree having worked at a host of one and two Michelin star restaurants in London and across the UK, including Chewton Glenn hotel and spa near Christchurch.

“It was at Chewton Glen where I met Alan Murchison, a chef who lit my spark for a more modern and progressive style of cooking,” said Ian.

“Alan would later leave the Chewton Glen to open his own restaurant – L’Órtolan – and so I followed my new mentor, to join his opening brigade.

“The team achieved one Michelin star in very short amount of time, and L’Órtolan became a big name in the industry.”

After periods working at Seaham Hall in County Durham and the Samling Hotel in the Lake District – where he achieved one Michelin star, three coveted AA rosettes and also was acclaimed “Best World Boutique Hotel for Dining” twice – Ian moved to the head chef position at The Pass at South Lodge.

Ian is just one of many well-known locally-based chefs to have worked their way through the respected kitchens of South Lodge.

Other notable names who are now operating their own Sussex restaurants are Ian’s contemporaries Johnny Stanford, Steven Edwards and Matt Gillan.

“As South Lodge, I wanted to showcase a truly experiential offering”, said Ian.

“Using art, service, and theatre we created a unique and fun dining experience that would arouse all the senses of our guests.”

So, why the move to his own venture?

“I have never been scared of creativity,” said Ian.

“Now I want to cook elegant and honest food. My interest in cultural food inspires me to showcase dishes from around the world using my personal approach.”

The format is very much based around plates to share, which Ian believes brings a sense of togetherness to each table.

Dishes include truffled Scotch egg arancini, black rice with cuttlefish and cracker, and roast lamb rump with black garlic and nettle puree.

“Sharing food makes dining a social experience,” continued Ian.

“The average table of two would probably have two to three pinchos, one fish course, one vegetarian, two mains, sides and a dessert each, plus a bottle of wine.”

He estimated the cost as a very reasonable £40 per head which for food of Ian’s standard is hard to beat in Brighton.

“I believe in small dishes. As a creative chef, I´m not trying to fill you up with massive plates of food, designed to satisfy hunger alone, but something with a much higher purpose: to give you dishes to enjoy from start to end.”