What should be at the top of every Christmas host's priority list? Serving a decent wine of course. But when you don't know your Merlot from your Muscadet selecting the right festive tipple can prove tricky.

Even if you are something of a wine connoisseur, deciding when to bring that ageing bottle of port up from the cellar can be a tough task. A treasured red kept for a special seasonal toast could turn into sorry sour grapes if you've not stored it correctly.

For wine novices, Christmas can often be full of anything but good cheer - yet more and more of us are buying it by the binful.

More than 13.8 million Britons buy at least one bottle of wine to keep and two million plan to buy or build some form of wine storage within the next five years, according to recent research by Standard Life.

If you've been bitten by the vine bug then Christmas is the ideal time to start your own cellar'. From leaving a small something out for Santa, to serving unexpected relatives, not to mention last-minute gifts, the right wine will oblige if you have plenty in stock.

Before you make some buying blunders, stock up on basic knowledge and start your collection with the help of renowned wine writer, Tim Atkin. He's put together Spiral Cellar's guide Buy Now, Drink Later, with advice on buying, storing and drinking quality wines.

"A good cellar should include wines for a variety of occasions, from a neighbour popping in for a quick drink to a smart dinner party. I try to have a selection of ready-to-drink wines close at hand, as well as wines that are maturing," says Atkin.

Toast the season with some of his helpful hints.

BUY RIGHT "THE first and most important rule is to buy what you like to drink," says Atkin. "Unless you are buying solely for investment purposes."

If you plan on drinking your purchases with your Christmas turkey, a good red Bordeaux will compliment beautifully, without being overpowering.

Atkin suggests a Chateau Leoville Barton Saint Julien, saying: "In the mad world of the leading Bordeaux chateaux, this is a model of restraint when it comes to pricing."

He recommends steering clear of overrated producers and looking for some lesser-known gems that will catch your guests', or your hosts', eye.

For example, he says Australian Penfolds Grange can be wonderful, but asks, "Is it worth the money?".

Instead he favours Maghill Estate.

Some of his top tips also include New Zealand's Ata Rangi - "reds of Burgundian complexity" - or Fontodi's Chianti Classico, "nothing like as expensive as it should be".

You can normally pick up a decent bottle in your local supermarket - "Sainsbury's, Tesco, Waitrose and Marks & Spencer all sell wines that wouldn't look out of place in the smartest cellar" - but Atkin points out that high-street wine stores and independent merchants can offer specialist advice.

He suggests checking out price comparison sites www.everywine.co.uk and www.winesearcher.com to make sure you are paying the best price.

If you are buying to store, Atkin recommends snapping up at least six bottles of each product that takes your fancy. That way you can see how the wine develops over time.

GIFT ADVICE IF YOU are planning to give a bottle as a Christmas present consider what would be best to store, and point out to the recipient that you are giving them something that will keep.

You want them to savour your gift, not open it late into the night in a New Year's Eve blur.

Some wines lend themselves better to storage than others. Red wines with plenty of tannin, such as a Borolo, red Bordeaux and Port, are good candidates as the tannin helps keep the wine fresh and stable.

White wines that age well are much rarer, but Atkin suggests going for a Chardonnay, Riesling, Chenin Blanc or Semillion.

HOW TO SERVE A WELL-AGED treasured bottle from the cellar is a wonderful way to help the Christmas dinner go down.

But bear in mind the ageing of the wine is not all there is to it. The correct serving of the product is just as important to ensure it stays in the best possible condition.

Atkin points out that: "There's no point in storing your wine correctly if you proceed to serve it at the wrong temperature, in an inappropriate glass or with a deposit."

Firstly, ensure you serve your wine at the correct temperature. Red wine should not go above 20C - "It can get stewed and flabby" - and white wine should not be below 8C. Always have a wine thermometer on hand to check.

Next, consider using a decanter. This allows the wine to breathe, removes any sediment and enhances its perfume and fruit.

Lastly, always try to serve your wine in a glass with a tapered bowl as it will help to concentrate its aromas.