BURNT ORANGE

Middle Street, Brighton

WHAT IS IT? A new venue in the heart of The Lanes, created by Brighton restaurateur Razak Helalat (the man behind local favourites The Salt Room, The Coal Shed). He describes it as a “grown-up, late-night hangout for adults that is part bar, part restaurant”. Burnt Orange opened in June in what used to be the Old Coach House pub. The interior has been extensively refurbished.

WHAT MAKES IT DIFFERENT? The website boasts the tagline “all day and just the right amount of night”, which sounds a bit like that old Kinks song, and it’s not far off. According to Helalat, the idea came out of conversations with friends who wanted somewhere to eat and drink late (but not too late). Crucially, they wanted a place where you could reserve a table to avoid the post-pub rush. But you could happily settle down at lunchtime and keep going til chucking-out time.

Helalat says: “We combine great food and amazing drinks with the right music. The basis of the menu is well-sourced, high-quality seasonal ingredients cooked predominantly over fire.”

There is room for 54 covers inside and 28 out on the secluded and covered terrace. There is also a private dining room upstairs that seats ten people.

The music has been chosen by none other than Fatboy Slim, who updates the playlist regularly.

The Argus: Cocktails at Burnt OrangeCocktails at Burnt Orange

GOOD ATMOSPHERE? Very much so. A bar-restaurant is a tricky act to pull off. Bars can be too noisy and restaurants too quiet. But Burnt Orange gets the mix right. It is intimate but still lively. You can hear yourself speak over the music, like a decent restaurant, but there is that exciting “anything could happen” vibe that you get on a night out in a good bar. And there is none of that pressure to finish your meal to make way for the next customer. Another plus is that you can dress up or dress down and neither look feels out of place.

WHAT’S THE FOOD LIKE? Helalat’s description of a late-night hangout for socialising slightly undervalues Burnt Orange’s greatest strength – its food, much of it cooked in a wood-fired oven. The invention and attention to detail are first rate. The style is best described as tapas and is a mix of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine that’s ideal for sharing. Staff recommend the Burnt Orange Experience (£35 a head, minimum two people), a sort of greatest hits album of the whole menu.

We loved the crispy smoked lamb shoulder cigars with yogurt, the spiced calamari fritti with lemon aioli and the melt-in-the-mouth pork belly shawarma with pickled fennel salad. The smoked miso aubergine with crispy onions and sour cream was tangy and smokey and perfect, whether you’re veggie or not. It is all very subtle, incredibly tasty and beautifully presented. And very filling too.

WHAT ABOUT DRINKS? There’s a big selection of wines (from around £20 to £70 a bottle) and craft beers but the cocktails are the big hit. We loved the Bazaar (gin, pomegranate juice, honey syrup, lemon juice and mint leaves, £10), as well as the signature Burnt Orange martini (gin, Cointreau and Lillet Blanc, grilled orange skin and olives, £11).

ANYTHING WE NEED TO KNOW? You will need to book. However, you can only reserve a table inside. If you want to eat outside in the covered courtyard, you have to take pot luck as tables are only available for walk-ins.

FINAL BILL: About £130 for two, including dessert and drinks. Not the cheapest in town but very well worth it.

DO THEY DO TAKEAWAY? No, sorry. This is not an experience you can really recreate at home, even if you have just gone on Spotify and cued up Right Here, Right Now.