SUSHI is in vogue right now. It is healthy, accessible, and makes you sound interesting in the office.

But for those abhor fish it can be a nightmare. And unfortunately, I am firmly in this camp.

Fish is divisive, there are not too many people who “kind of” like it. But I am delighted to report that after a recent trip to Sushi Shop in North Street, Brighton, I have been converted.

Many restaurants fail in the first year as their owners enjoy eating out but don't realise the implications of running one. But franchisee Ahmed Eldessouki is the real deal.

The Argus: Ahmed EldessoukiAhmed Eldessouki

He loves food, and has run many successful restaurants in the past. Equally enthusiastic are his staff, who have recently returned from a training spell in Paris – which I was surprised to learn is quickly becoming a hotspot for innovative sushi design.

And the training is evident.

The dishes themselves are exquisite. Traditional offerings such as succulent salmon filled with a light cream cheese, right through to teriyaki beef with Greek yoghurt – the range is huge.

Huge healthy poke bowls, light vegetable gyoza, gorgeous, thick chicken skewer. Everything is spot on.

The Argus: A selection of the sushi availableA selection of the sushi available

But it is the fish we came for, and the reason we will go back. Anchovies, prawn, salmon, tuna – it is all so fresh, and so well cared for in preparation.

Desserts are also top notch. Thinly sliced avocado filled with decadent Nutella and sea salt works fabulously, coupled with mango-topped rice with a sprig of dill for a palate cleanser.

One concept that made no sense was the Smile Boxes. A bright yellow tub filled with sushi to make you “happy”.

The Argus: All the ingredients are freshly preparedAll the ingredients are freshly prepared

It seems out of place here. The restaurant itself is simple, with dark colours, and elegant in design, and there are plenty of pre-packaged selection boxes to choose from – so why the Smile Boxes?

This, though, is a small gripe, and a purely visual one.

And so my sushi scepticism was gone, making way for an exciting future of cuisine, of which Sushi Shop will definitely be part.