World-famous for a battle which didn’t take place here, a traditional fishing fleet and an ever-growing arts scene, Hastings has a medieval heritage and a charming bohemian spirit
THE OLD COURT HALL
Based on The Bourne, The Old Court Hall is generally considered to be the oldest building in Hastings, dating from around 1450. And yet, here it stands on the side of one of the busiest thoroughfares in town, with thousands of vehicles trundling past it every single day with barely anybody giving it a second, or even a first, glance.
GEORGE STREET
Without a single chain store or big brand name in sight, George Street is the shopping heart of Old Town. Instead, it’s full of quirky little one-off shops, cafés and pubs vying for your custom. Here and in the High Street, at the eastern end, is where you can find yourself lost in funny little places that invite some rummaging around to find things you didn’t know you were looking for.
THE RUINS OF ST MARY'S CHAPEL
In the middle of an ordinary-looking housing estate, just off the A259 at Bulverhythe, it’s a surprise to stumble upon the ruins of a chapel dating back about 800 years, to shortly after the Norman invasion of 1066. St Mary’s Chapel, or what’s left of it, was built by the Earls of Eu, high-ranking nobility from an important part of northern Normandy, but has sadly been in ruins for centuries. It was initially excavated in 1861 but was further investigated in 1929. Admittedly, there’s not a lot to see, but it is a curious and little-known part of Hastings.
MARINE COURT, ST LEONARDS
Marine Court is a 14-storey Art Deco apartment block on the seafront of St Leonards. If ever a building is said to dominate a seafront, it is this one. Intended to visually emulate the RMS Queen Mary, the liner that has resided in Long Beach, California since 1967, this building, like all good controversial designs, was heavily opposed by local residents. There was originally a rooftop bar, a restaurant spread over two stories and a large public lounge. Marine Court was requisitioned by the RAF during World War II for training purposes but, after the Luftwaffe attacked the seafront on September 24, 1942, killing three cadets and injuring 12, the training facilities moved to safer climes in Yorkshire. In the 1960s the restaurant was converted into a club called The Witch Doctor that hosted, among many others, David Bowie and Jimi Hendrix.
STATUE OF EDITH SWANNECK
In the West Marina Gardens of St Leonards is this statue of Edith the Fair, also known as Edith Swanneck, kneeling next to the body of Harold Godwinson, or King Harold II. The scene depicts the folkloric story of Edith identifying Harold’s lifeless body in the field after the 1066 Battle of Hastings. According to the story, she was able to identify him by markings on his chest known only to her. The couple were not really married in the eyes of the church and would today be known as long-term partners or something similar. The Victorian-era romantic depiction of this scene was commissioned in 1875 by Thomas Brassey, then the MP for Hastings. It has resided in various locations around the town but has been here since 1953, exposed to the elements, which has led to today’s rather weather-beaten appearance.
THE BRASSEY INSTITUTE AND HASTINGS LIBRARY
The Grade II-listed Brassey Institute in Claremont is an extraordinary building, possibly overlooked when thinking of Hastings’ architectural jewels. Originally established as The Brassey School of Science and Art in 1879, it currently houses the town’s library, which has been here for decades. It is Grade II-listed, and was designed in a style known as Victorian Gothic. If you’ve ever been to Venice, you will understand why.
BASTON LODGE
This Italianate-style villa in St Leonards, dating from 1850, was the childhood home of World War II codebreaker Alan Turing. He devised techniques for speeding up the breaking of German codes, including improvements to a pre-war machine that could find settings for the Enigma machine. He played a crucial role in cracking intercepted messages that enabled the Allies to defeat the far-right Axis powers in the Battle of the Atlantic during World War II and other engagements. He was never fully recognised during his lifetime because much of his work was covered by the Official Secrets Act. Worse still, he was prosecuted in 1952 for homosexual acts which were at the time still illegal. He accepted chemical castration over prison after pleading guilty, and his security clearance was revoked. He died in 1954 at the age of 41, possibly by his own hand, of cyanide poisoning. Prime Minister Gordon Brown publicly apologised in 2009 for his appalling treatment and the Queen issued a posthumous pardon in 2013.
THE NET SHOPS AT ROCK-A-NORE
The net shops on the beach are the traditional storage buildings of Hastings’ fishing fleet. They were used to store materials like sails or nets, made from natural materials, that would rot if left out in the open while still wet. They are called shops, not because things were sold from there, but rather in the sense that this was where work took place, or a workshop. Some stand up to three storeys high and, in the UK, they are unique..
LOCAL LIFE
Hastings resident Jack Guy:
‘What’s great about Hastings is the history. There are beautiful buildings around the town. The castle has lovely views. You can go up the East Hill on the funicular and the beach is just charming. People tend to act differently when they’re at the seaside. It’s a place to relax, express yourself and have fun. It’s lively and very social but I think at the core of everything there’s a lot of care and kindness. It’s a lovely place to be.’
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