If I’ve said it once, then I’ve said it a hundred times: Brighton is somewhat lacking in choice when it comes to good, affordable seafood, writes Nick Mosley.
One would think that with neighbouring Shoreham and Newhaven ports both landing south coast catch there’d be a lot more decent restaurants but I can count them on one hand. Unfortunately I can also count the not so good ones on both hands and probably my feet too.
A personal favourite is The Copper Clam, situated just to the west of Shelter Hall in the Kings Road Arches. This was my second visit of the year and I must say I was rather looking forward to it as I didn’t really have any other plans for the day. With an enviable sunny terrace and very cosy upstairs dining room with windows looking out to sea, it's a very chill space that really rocks the seaside vibe.
As this was going to be a lazy afternoon of small plate grazing, I invited my pal Seb from Boho Gelato and ever-reliable Little Miss Greedy Guts to help me out. It was only when Seb picked up the menu and his face slightly dropped that I remembered he doesn’t eat seafood… admittedly this proved challenging on previous work trips to Sicily.
The menu is surprisingly extensive. You’ll find seafood platters at around £50 per person, various cuts of steak, oysters and catch of the day, however it's the small plates that put the Copper Clam head and shoulders over the competition. Priced at £10-15 each, we found seven plates to share was more than enough but if you’re hungry then you can always order more.
Heading up the kitchen is Ash Barton, who’s been knocking around Brighton restaurants and pubs for a good number of years. He’s a bit of a cheeky chappy with genuine charm; he’s also a bloody good cook with his eye very much on technique and trends without an ounce of precociousness evident on the plate.
As our resident non-fish eater, Seb ordered spicy Korean-style Gochujang slow braised duck served on a potato taco with smoked mozzarella, Asian-style pickled cucumber and chilli oil. The Korean kitchen continues to be a bang-on trend and this dish didn’t disappoint with rich umami, a gentle tang and an invigorating hit of proper heat.
Seb’s other choice was grilled hispi cabbage on a garlic sauce. Hands-up, I didn’t try this one as firstly I’m not a fan of hazelnuts – you can’t shift for them in restaurants at the moment – and, secondly, I’m bored to tears by braised or charred cabbage and lettuce but Seb had no complaints and each to their own.
Chicken aside, Little Miss Greedy Guts has an unhealthy obsession with prawns. I can’t recall a single meal we’ve had together where she hasn’t got her shrimp on; I merely need to close my eyes and I can see her chowing them down. So it was somewhat inevitable that she’d be ordering the tempura prawns served on a hearty dollop of padron pepper yoghurt. I think it’s fair to say these were as close to perfection as you’ll find anywhere: wonderfully light and crisp batter – nothing flabby to see here – coating firm not floury prawns elevated with the slightly sour yogurt dressing.
I was torn between the two dishes I ordered as I think they were both exceptional in their own ways. I’ll start with the rolled skate stuffed with prawn – a roulade of sweet, slightly nutty, meaty white flesh packed with a textured mousse of rich, briny shrimp. The lift came from wedges of sweet, citrusy pink grapefruit and crunchy, slightly salty fried capers.
As impressive as that dish was, I have to say the barbecue scallops with pine nuts, tomato consommé and barbecue strawberries pipped it at the post. At the start of the year I had roasted scallops with ‘nduja at The Crazy Goose and I was raving about the dish for weeks; unfortunately it’s left the menu there but the Copper Clam’s version is a clear equal and the addition of the charred strawberries a stroke of absolute genius. Stick a few on your barbecue this summer and you’ll see exactly what I mean.
In recent weeks, I’ve eaten in numerous restaurants where seemingly creative combinations read fine on the menu and look great on the plate but the flavours aren’t balanced, or there’s simply too much of what should be a supporting ingredient resulting in the star of the show being overwhelmed. This is absolutely not the case at the Copper Clam which is what I think makes it one of the best kitchens in Sussex – it’s really thoughtful exciting dining.
Despite fusing ingredients, cooking styles and flavours from every corner of the world – Mexico to Germany, Korea to Spain – dishes in themselves are a harmonious and pleasurable joy to eat, with the menu as a whole delivering genuine cohesion.
The considered culinary talent of chef Ash and his team is not only a credit to the Copper Clam; it’s credit to the Sussex food scene and genuinely needs recognition.
The Copper Clam, 143-144 Kings Road Arches, Brighton BN1 2FN
01273 323 847 • www.thecopperclam.com
Share