Blenio

The writing is literally on the wall. An elegantly scrawled quote, one of several which decorate the interior, reads: “One of the nicest things about life is the way we must regularly stop whatever we are doing and devote our attention to eating.”

Clearly passionate about the pleasures of food and drink, Paula Black, who opened Blenio with her chef husband Peter Bruschi just over a week ago, has done a fantastic job of making a visit here a full-bodied experience.

The food – which they describe as modern European with a French slant – is confident, light and inspired, and the other ingredients which make an evening enjoyable are spot on too, inviting all the senses into the room. The background music is relaxing, the decor is crisp, uncluttered and easy on the eye and the service is friendly without being imposing.

Formerly Dali’s, the restaurant itself has been transformed into a homely, rustic space open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Enjoy a toasted brioche with warm berry sauce and a fair trade cappucino or real mint tea in the morning, or drop in for an energizing salad at midday.

For an evening meal there are more luxurious options such as aromatic steamed cod with a herb sauce, or slow roast belly of pork with warm truffle and new potato salad.

If you fancy something lighter, try the deli counter where you can find home-made quiche, fritattas, soup and salads to eat in or take away, along with cakes and pastries, preserves, pickles and ground espresso coffee.

Inside, the white, tile-topped tables are complemented by the powder blue paintwork and exposed brickwork, and there’s an attractive and imaginative attention to detail – the cutlery comes in a ceramic pot and the menus on clipboards, for example.

There is the spacious courtyard outside, which once given the go-ahead from the council, should once again become the ideal resting place it was destined to be for brunch, or a cool beer on a sunny day – try Ivan Hoe or Meteor, or Cornish orchard cider, which comes in a flagon to share (£8).

In the evening, the extensive wine list is a big draw with several delicious wines by the glass from £3.50, including sparkly Prosecco (£4.50 per glass/£16 per bottle). Dessert wines, freshly squeezed juices, bottled beers and a range of spirits are also available.

While new to Brighton, Paula and Peter have been in the business for more than two decades. Paula worked within corporate hospitality for many years and Peter started his career as a Roux Brothers apprentice during the Eighties, developing his culinary style at a number of restaurants including their first and former business venture, the well-regarded restaurant Right on the Green in Tunbridge Wells.

Review: June 8, 2007

Open 10am-10pm daily.Dyke Road, Brighton.Call 01273 220220

Sample the menu

Breakfast Pancetta, sausage, egg, mushroom, grilled tomatoes and potatoes, £6.50 Warm brioche with berry sauce, £5 Lunch Soup of roasted red peppers and vine tomatoes served cold, £4.50 Olives, sundried tomato and feta cheese frittata with garnish, £3.50 Dinner Starters Tuna carpaccio, ginger, sesame seeds and avocado, £5.50 Crispy duck, watercress and white radish salad, £6 Mains Rye bay wild seabass, lemon grass cream, lime syrup and rice, £14.50 Slowly roasted tamworth cross pork with warm potato and truffle salad, £13.50 Desserts Vanilla and lime cheescake, £6.50 Spiced pear and chocolate sauce, £6.50