Independent beer makers are brewing up a storm in Sussex

Discerning consumers are developing a taste for home-grown beers created from produce found in their own county.

Organic, local and seasonal produce is giving people in Sussex a taste for flavours they do not get from industrially-produced lagers and beers.

Latest trends suggest real ales are growing in popularity, which is encouraging a growth in microbreweries - small craft breweries producing individual beers with distinct flavours.

This, in turn, is boosting business for independent producers in Sussex, generating local jobs without damaging the environment.

Running a microbrewery is a project of passion for most independent brewers rather than a money-spinner.

But a report from The Society of Independent Brewers (Siba) revealed that national sales by its members in 2005 were up by 12 per cent on the previous year.

And, according to the Campaign for Real Ale (Camra), about 50 new small brewers are opening each year.

Microbreweries still cannot compete with the mass-produced beer industry but, on a local level, they are enjoying giving them a run for their money.

Sussex boasts a wealth of locally brewed real ales but as Robert Wallace of 1648 brewery in East Hoathly, near Lewes, explained, you have still got to love your beer to make it worthwhile.

He said: "It's a hobby thing really. It's like having a big train set."

Robert and his business partner Dave Seabrook started out with home brewing and now own a four-and-a-half barrelbrewing plant which they converted from an old-fashioned coaching inn.

He said: "We made the hay loft into the barley store and one part, where the horses were, we kept as the brewery, and the other is a cold room."

This ex-Merchant Navy cook has no illusions about the money-making potential of his "hobby".

"We are paring back all the time and hoping that by the end of this financial year we have covered our initial set-up costs. A lot of people going into it don't realise you can't make money for a while.

"We have both got other jobs. I think it's a three-year process before you make any money."

Their tip is "to have your own style of brewing - be different from Harveys", and it helps having a culinary background.

Robert said: "We take different barleys and hops and try to match them. They're all original recipes.

"My favourite is a Signature. It's got two flavours: A barleyish flavour when you drink it but it leaves you with a nice bitter hop flavour afterwards.

"Some of the hops we put in are supposed to keep their bitterness and not stew into the beer. It's similar to the way I used to make my curry bases."

Father Godfrey Broster had good cause to go into brewing. He set up Rectory Ales Ltd in Streat, Hassocks in a bid to save his three parish churches - St Michael's in Plumpton, All Saints in Plumpton Green and East Chiltington church.

He said: "It's been a relative success but the number of outlets you can sell your beer in has shrunk dramatically because bigger beer companies have bought up pubs left, right and centre. They'll only have your beer if you sell it for next to nothing but it's great fun."

Derek Harvey, of Arundel brewery in Ford, agreed: "There used to be a law that all pubs had to have a guest ale but the Labour Government removed that protection. A few more free houses go every year and not many new ones come up to replace them."

Derek took an unusual route to the brewery business - he answered an advert in The Times. He said: "I'd retired from financial services in the City and had got a bit bored, then I saw an advert for a brewery for sale on the South Coast."

He believes the new hope for microbreweries is the trend for third parties, such as Siba, to act on behalf of local brewers to get deals with the big pub owners.

Another way is to have your own pub.

Mike Biggs runs a brewery out of the First In Last Out pub in Hastings, and Rob Jones of Dark Star brewery in Burgess Hill has the Evening Star public house in Brighton and the Stand Up Inn in Lindfield.

Both have found success in having regulars on hand to buy their beer.

Rob said: "We'd have never moved the brewery out of the back of the Evening Star if we didn't have a pub to start with.

To secure the sales of the beer we do, we need our own pubs because the free trade's dodgy."

Younger drinkers are ensuring that whatever the supply problems, demand is on the increase.

Rob said: "I've noticed a trend for younger people coming in to drink real ale. When we first got involved, it was predominately the Camra crowd."

Mike puts it down to the community spirit of real ale pubs. He said: "It's all about community and chatting and not getting legless on alcopops."

Growing environmental consciousness is another reason to drink local. Not only does the trade support Sussex businesses but the process is eco-friendly, too.

"We try to use South-East ingredients,"

said Robert Wallace, "Hops from Kent and Sussex, I think you need to promote local produce."

In return, the brewers give their spent barley to local farmers. Robert joked: "You can tell the local herd of cows. They're the ones walking sideways in the field."

The used hops are recycled as garden mulch. Godfrey Broster passes his yeast on to be used in Marmite and Mike Biggs uses his cooling water for cleaning.

They are even organic, where costs permit. Andy Hepworth, of Hepworth and Co. in Horsham, makes an organic lager which is in demand as far afield as Bordeaux in France and Hong Kong.

After five years, they have quadrupled in size, supplying 500 barrels of beer a week. But there's no secret to their success says Andy: "You have to work hard, there are no big fortunes or quick fixes. It's a very traditional, wholesome business."

Thursday, January 19, 2006