The Governor was a feisty greyhound who loved to kill chickens. After being caught in the act on a country estate near Leeds, he was passed on to racing fanatic Frank White, who took the dog to race at tracks in Yorkshire.

The lively animal broke records at Halifax, Keighley and Pontefract and won 32 of 28 races.

“He originally raced under the name Fearless but after those races he was only ever known by one name,” explains Frank’s son, chef Marco Pierre White, who named his first malt ale brew after the racer.

The drink is best taken with food, says White, so the ale will be on tap at The Rainbow Inn in Cooksbridge, the third Sussex restaurant (after The Chequers Inn, Maresfield, and The Kings Arms, Fernhurst) in his ever-expanding Wheeler’s Inn chain.

“The Governor ran on unlicensed, handicapped, ‘flapping tracks’ and, as favourite, always ran from trap one which meant he had to come from behind.

“He was incredible. So we named the ale after him. Also because The Governor is a great name for a pint.”

White told the story at a low-key opening for the refurbished inn, which he now co-owns with long-term owner Tarquin Gorst. The event was followed by a grand auction for White’s favourite charity Help For Heroes (he has twice cooked for the Army, once in Afghanistan and once in England).

The tale of The Governor is relevant for a couple of reasons.

It reminds us how far White has come – from humble beginnings in working-class Leeds (cue whippet and flat cap gag) – but also relates to his new project’s guiding ethos.

He says The Rainbow Inn is a restaurant that serves pints rather than a pub that serves food.

Drinkers are welcome to stop by for a pint at the bar but the place is primarily a destination for eating.

“I hate the word gastropub,” jokes White, as he knocks back another Governor. “It makes me think of gastroenteritis.”

He reckons people want to eat out two or three times a week, so it’s important to have something for everyone’s pockets.

“If I wanted to take my dear lady for a slap-up meal or have lunch with my friends, I can do that.

“It’s about value for money. The key to Wheeler’s is to do food and to do it well.”

White is not interested in the 18-course chemistry approach favoured by his old protégé Heston Blumenthal at The Fat Duck in Bray. He prefers a thick slice of fish or top quality meat and three courses.

Starters on the dinner menu include Wheelers pea and ham soup, £6.50, and Morecambe Bay potted shrimps, brown bread and butter, £9.50.

Mains include roast venison with sauce chocolate Amer, chox a la crème, £19.50, and Scottish rib-eye steak à l’escargot with herbs, sauce béarnaise, £22.50.

Desserts at £6.50 include Mr White’s rice pudding, prunes d Agen à l’Armagnac and Box Tree banana Eton mess.

That final dish is a nod to White’s early career. After leaving school with no qualifications he trained at the Hotel St George in Harrogate and Ilkley’s Box Tree.

At 33 he became the youngest chef ever to be awarded three Michelin stars (that most formal of award schemes) but he has never taken to the idea eating should be a haughty pursuit.

To keep the atmosphere informal at The Rainbow Inn there are illustrations by former Daily Mail and Express cartoonist JAX on every wall, and lace tablecloths – “all white is too serious, lace is what your grandma put out when she wanted to put on a nice spread”.

While the dark pine walls and new seating area that replaces the old entrance are White’s vision, the man doing the cooking is Chris Warwick. He worked with White at London restaurants The Hansome Cab (White co-owns with Piers Morgan) and The Punchbowl (White co-owns with Guy Ritchie).

Though with White working seven days a week and travelling thousands of miles a year with his driver, he will never be far away.

Lunch served Monday to Saturday, noon until 2.30pm. Dinner served in the evening, Monday to Saturday 6.30pm until 10pm. Sunday lunch and dinner served between noon and 4pm, and 6pm and 9pm