Nordic nights

Your brain is telling you to sleep but your body wants to get up and start the day. Thankfully, hotels in Iceland have extra curtains to block out the sunlight when the time comes to hit the hay.

For this is the land of the midnight sun, famed for its endless summer days and long winter nights.

Situated 66 degrees north, just shy of the Arctic Circle and on the Mid-Atlantic ridge, Iceland is a fascinating country, with an amazing array of natural wonders gathered together on one island. Geysers, glaciers, volcanoes, waterfalls: Iceland has them all.

The landscape is characterised by the country’s volcanic activity, with miles upon miles of vast, barren lava fields, where little more than moss grows. Geothermal activity provides cheap, clean energy for the people and heated water for thermal pools and spas.

You’d think, given its name and northerly location, that Iceland would be a pretty inhospitable and chilly place. However, the Gulf Stream keeps the climate fairly mild, with highs of around 14 degrees in summer. Apparently if the mercury tips past 20, everyone gets a day off work. David Cameron take note.

We were spending a weekend in the capital city of Reykjavik, in the south-west of the island. Since gaining independence from the Danes in 1944, the city has flourished and forged a path as a vibrant, modern capital.

With Iceland’s population at just 320,000, around 60% of whom live within the greater Reykjavik area, it is quite different from the buzz of most European capitals. Strolling through the streets of Reykjavik on a Saturday afternoon in July felt more akin to wandering around a sleepy fishing village. And this is by no means a bad thing. The atmosphere is relaxed, safe and welcoming.

We were staying at the Leifur Eiriksson hotel, a short walk from the city centre and opposite the towering Hallgrímskirkja church. After a breakfast of rye bread, meats, cheeses and freshly made waffles, the church was our first point of call. Hallgrímskirkja is home to a formidable organ with more than 5,000 pipes, and while we were visiting there were live organ recitals taking place to show off the instrument’s impressive range.

The modern concrete building was built over a 40-year period after the Second World War, finally opening in 1986. Today, you can take a lift to the top of the 73m-high tower for stunning views across the colourful rooftops of Reykjavik and out to the bay beyond.

A visit to Reykjavik wouldn’t be complete without a boat trip out into Faxaflói Bay for some whale-watching. Iceland is an ideal place to see whales, dolphins and porpoises, with many species spending the summer months feeding in the bay.

On the journey out from the harbour, a guide talked about the local wildlife and the signs to watch out for that might indicate a whale is nearby. After sailing for about 45 minutes, the boat slowed its engine and we lined the edges, eyes fixed on the rippling water.

All of a sudden, there was a flash of black and white between the waves as a minke whale leapt from the water and splashed down on its back. Moments later, another emerged from the deep to gasps of excitement from the boat. It was an incredible experience witnessing these gentle giants in their natural habitat. On the return journey we made a short stop by Puffin Island to see flocks of the beautiful seabirds swoop through the sky above us, topping off what was an unforgettable trip.

The following day we took a bus out to the Sólheimajökull glacier as part of Reykjavik Excursions’ Walk On The Ice Side tour. Reykjavik Excursions run a whole range of different tours, from snowmobiling or snorkelling, to visiting geysers and waterfalls, or following in the footsteps of Vikings.

Glaciers make up around 11% of Iceland’s terrain and the only way to truly get a feel for the frozen landscape is to strap on some crampons and hike up. Our friendly guide Björgvin led the way, talking us through how crevasses and sink holes form, and holding us as we leant over deep precipices to stare into the icy abyss. The silence of this remote location only helped magnify the sound of water gushing down into the void.

The trek took us near the volcano Eyjafjallajökull, whose name you might remember (even if you can’t pronounce) from when it erupted in April 2010, causing chaos for flights across Europe. Ash from the eruption lies all over, and in places thick black layers of dust have insulated the glacier, causing black peaks to form as the ice has melted all around. It’s a peculiar sight and makes a stark contrast against the crisp white ice.

From the frozen terrain of the glacier, it was only fair we also got to experience Iceland’s warmer side. And with so many hot springs and thermal pools around, it’s easy to join in with one of the Icelanders’ favourite pastimes: swimming.

We visited the Blue Lagoon geothermal spa, near Keflavík airport. The lagoon is famous for its milky blue mineral-rich waters, nestled among rocky black lava fields. Lolling around in the 37-degree water, and treating myself to a silica mud facemask, I don’t think I’ve ever felt more relaxed. For those who want to indulge further, there are spa treatments and massages for an additional fee, and a sauna and steam room included in the price.

It was very difficult to pull ourselves out of the water but the delicious sushi buffet at the Lava Restaurant, overlooking the Lagoon, was a fine reward.

Buses run daily from Reykjavik to the lagoon and then on to the airport, while large lockers are provided for luggage, making it an ideal place to unwind before heading home.

On the plane back it didn’t matter how light it was. I was so rested from my time at the Blue Lagoon, I was fast asleep before we’d even left the ground.