Why do chefs feel it necessary to tell us dishes are “pan” fried (what else would they be friend in, the sink?), why do they describe pieces of meat as being “elegantly sliced” (really? How?) and why do they insist their menu has a “concept”.

Most of us let these things go. But Observer food critic Jay Rayner doesn’t, and he spent Wednesday evening telling those at The Old Market in Hove all about it.

The talk, entitled My Dining Hell, saw him run through some of his restaurant pet hates.

From waiters constantly interrupting to ask “is everything OK for you guys?” to menu spelling mistakes such as “basil enthused pasta”.

He then turned his critical eye to seven London restaurants he loathes. From Russian owned Putin-serving Novikov (which he received death threats after reviewing) to Beast where steak and crab will cost you £100 and wine up to £5,900. Even then you don’t get your own table.

He then took questions from members of the audience, who were keen to get his take on Brighton and Hove’s restaurants. His favourite? Any of Ben McKellan’s Gingerman group, where did he go for lunch? The Little Blue Smokehouse at the Seven Stars. However, he would not be drawn on his least favourite.

The whole evening had more of an air of therapy for Rayner than being a talk for the audience.

That said, it was all rather good fun.

Four stars