ONE of the exhibitions at the core of an upcoming festival gets to the heart of its theme.

Taking the tagline of Beyond The Bias – Reshaping Image, Brighton Photo Biennial 2016 (BPB) addresses and questions how photography “can inform and reflect socio-political issues”.

Curated and produced by Photoworks, this seventh edition of BPB investigates the body, gender and sexuality, the subversion of social and cultural norms, photography’s function within the fashion business and the politics of sub-cultures and tribes.

One of the most striking elements of BPB is The Dandy Lion Project, a European premier by US artist Shantrelle Lewis.

Lewis, a curator based in Philadelphia, put out a call for work that explored the early 20th century phenomenon of black dandyism against the backdrop of modern city life.

Submissions came flooding in from around the globe, from Brooklyn to Johannesburg and Kinshasa to London. The result is 150 images from more than 30 photographers and film-makers which, after showings in Chicago and San Francisco, go on display at the University of Brighton Galleries in Edward Street (Monday-Saturday 10am-5pm, Sunday 10am-4pm, free).

The show defies stereotypical and monolithic understandings of black masculinity, by remixing Victorian-era fashion with traditional African sartorial sensibilities. It also includes vintage family and archive images.

Celia Davies, the director of Photoworks, the organisation behind BPB, says The Dandy Lion Project “shows the nuances of how black dandyism has been expressed across the globe”.

She tells The Guide: “The collection of images are really diverse. Some have been posed and some have been captured randomly.

“It’s a major show so we are really delighted we got it in.”

What leaps out in some images is the cross-over between masculinity and femininity.

Celia says: “Gender is a big topic now. How people choose to express who they are is incredibly interesting.

“While there are a lot of people who are looking generic and homogenised, there are also a lot of people pushing against that.”

The Dandy Lion Project is one of three major projects for BPB, the other two being new commissions. One is centred on British youth style while the other is a UK/India collaboration exploring sexuality and identity.

The youth style show is called Kick Over The Statues and takes place at Fabrica in Duke Street, Brighton, as part of a co-commission with the venue.

The series by photographer Ewen Spencer explores contemporary representations of sub-culture through style.

Large format images on custom-built billboards in the gallery space will be supplemented with music and projected images from Spencer’s personal archive. The idea is to create a streetscape-style setting.

His projects include those for The Face and Sleazenation as well as for Channel 4 and brands such as Nike.

Celia says: “Ewen said he was interested in the diaspora [meaning spread or scattering] of youth culture. Young people are not just trying to look fashionable – they are trying to have their own style.”

Unlike other BPB shows, it carries on through until November 27 (Wednesday-Saturday 12-5pm, Sunday 2-5pm, free).

The last of the three major projects is a collaboration between British photographer Olivia Arthur and India’s Bharat Sikka. Called Reimagine, it looks at the private and public presentation of self-image concerning gender and sexuality.

Arthur and Sikka worked in each other’s communities in Mumbai and Brighton – cities with sharply contrasting politics of gender and sexuality – to produce documentary work that revolves largely around people who identify as being part of the LGBTQ community.

Celia says: “The two cities are very different places to be. In Mumbai, they have recriminalised being gay.”

“And in Brighton it can also sometimes feel like it’s very on show, so there is still every reason to focus on LGBTQ issues around the world because there is a lot of work to do.”

The images in this show are more subtle than others, and need background context to be fully appreciated.

Celia says: “They are quieter pictures – they both wanted to produce images that are more delicate and personal.”

It is free entry at the University of Brighton’s Grand Parade site, over the same times and dates as The Dandy Lion Project.

BPB saw its inaugural exhibition in 2003, with a three-year gap until the 2006 show, after which it stayed true to type.

This biennial kicks off with an opening talk from key photographers on Friday, September 30 at the University of Brighton in Edward Street (1.30pm, £15/£12).

Elsewhere there are free exhibitions at the Jubilee Library and in neighbouring Jubilee Square, Brighton, for the whole month. The indoor one is called State Of Control while outdoors viewers can take in Our City, How Do We Look?

Celia adds: “I think this is a lovely opportunity to have some work right in the heart of the public realm.

“We also have a variety of talks and events so there really is something for everyone.”

>>>Brighton Photo Biennial runs from October 1 to 30. For the full programme of exhibitions, talks, tours and screenings visit bpb.org.uk.