THE traditional view of a railway station pub is a place in a permanent twilight with plastic furniture and a clientele of loud stag nighters or luggage-strewn holidaymakers.

Since it opened last month The Cyclist Refreshment Rooms has done its best to dispel that unsavoury image, with a fresh European feel, a light and airy atmosphere and friendly helpful staff.

From its humorous upcycled outside seating utilising tyres and plastic grass, to the bar built on suitcases in a nod to the building's history as a left luggage office, there is an impressive attention to detail in the design.

And this extends to the personal touches the family-run Greenwell And Tipple have brought to the space – which was transformed in just four weeks. One table is built around a model traction engine Dolly – described by operation and development manager Coco Clevely as her grandfather's pride and joy – while the wood panelling by the kitchen counter comes from the family's own dining room floor.

The Cyclist is the first project by the new family company from gastropub chain Geronimo Inns founders Rupert and Jo Clevely and their daughters Coco, India and Montana.

Managing the venue is Ed Johnston, who moved from the city to work in hospitality, including stints at Bill's in Lewes and a Geronimo pub in London.

"The Refreshment Room name is a move away from the gastropub," explains Johnston. "We serve breakfast, lunch and supper, all with locally sourced ingredients in a relaxed and informal way."

"The refreshment room in the 1940s was a place where you could get away from the buzzy and brash pub," adds Coco.

"When you travel in Italy, France and Spain you can eat fantastic food at train stations – in England at the moment it seems you can't."

The Cyclist isn't just aiming at commuters and holidaymakers – hoping to attract neighbouring office workers and nearby families to drop in. In the evenings there is a small plate tapas-style menu to encourage sociable dining. And there are healthy alternative breakfasts available such as slow-roasted tomatoes, fresh bananas with banana jam or saute mushrooms with fresh herbs and rocket all on sourdough bread – although for those in a hurry there are still bacon and sausage baps to take away.

The Cyclist's solution to the ever-shrinking lunch hour is an interactive buffet-style counter, with a choice of seasonal salads and hot food.

On the drinks menu are six red and six white old world wines, as well as Australian rose Rogers And Rufus Grenache which is owned by the Petworth-based Clevely family. Space has been found at the bar for local Longmans and Brighton brews, the city's own Small Batch coffee and two Sussex sparkling wines from Ditchling Common's Ridgeview and Pulborough's Nyetimber.

"For people who need to get on a train to London or Gatwick this can become a focal point of their social circle," says Johnston, adding tables can be booked for big parties.

"We have got to change the mindset of people in Brighton so they use this place as somewhere to stay and enjoy."

Sample The Menu
Breakfast
BBQ beans on sourdough bread £4.50
Cyclist breakfast - bacon, tomato, choice of eggs, saute mushroom, homemade beans £8

Lunch
The Cyclist beef burger from £7
Fish and chips £8

Evening
Braised sticky pork shoulder with wasabi peas £6
Griddled asparagus with herb salsa and truffle yolk £6.50

Desserts
Peach and almond tart, with sea-buckthorn ice cream £5.50
Strawberry and prosecco jelly with green tea meringue £5.50

Open Mon to Fri 8am to 11pm, Sat/Sun 10am to 10pm
Email edward@greenwellandtipple.co.uk