PARIS Wine Bar, Hove

ONE of three Paris themed bars in the city, the Paris Wine Bar stands out as a welcoming spot to dart inside for a large glass of warming red on a chilling winter’s evening.

The popular Church Road bar boasts fashionable bare brick walls and a sturdy wooden bar and successfully pulls off the European style.

Out back there is a large garden laden with reclaimed wooden benches and overhanging greenery.

The wine list is neither overcomplicated or overlong so picking the plonk is no trouble at all, with a range of grapes from France and the new world.

Better still, enlist the services of the helpful bartender who will happily recommend a Malbec or Rioja, depending on your preference.

It’s all rather reasonable and a bottle will not set you back too much.

Food wise, it is reliable French bistro fare with a few international classics thrown in to keep things interesting.

So you have rib eye steak, ruby red inside, served with meaty mushrooms and balsamic vinegar roasted tomatoes. The cut is generous, cooked on a searing hot grill and is ultimately, perfectly delicious.

The chunky chips have a great crispy outside, if a little chalky inside.

Starters include calamari, with just the right amount of salt and black pepper, served with sweet chilli sauce – bought in rather than made, though absolutely fine.

Hulking great king prawns come shell-on with a piquant spicy sauce.

Elsewhere on the menu is catch of the day – plaice when we visited – and a classic chicken liver pâté.

The service is attentive but informal, and towards the back is the best place for a quiet table for two – rather than the bar area, which is full of roaring laughter of the sozzled after-work crowd.

The overall experience does feel continental and thankfully the waiters do not have the brusque reputation of the real-life Parisian garçons.

With no separate dining area this is a bar first and somewhere to eat second, though that’s not to say you cannot have an enjoyable meal inside.