The proprietors of No.32 certainly have an impressive space to work with.

The former theatre on Duke Street boasts balcony seating which peers down onto the dining room and deep bar. Further into the space there is yet more seating and a casual bar area.

Formerly Havana restaurant and cocktail bar, proprietors Ben and Ali Samandi have transformed the elegant, magnolia-washed space, of piña coladas and lounge piano, into a sultry and modern multi-purpose venue.

Dark blues, wrought iron and bare brick now dominate the interior, while house music reverberates from the turntables.

Though a dance-friendly bar, it is the food we have come to try, which has also had a makeover. Head chef Matt Hudson, formerly of 64 Degrees, is in charge of an informal menu full of generous, popular favourites, with plenty of luxury.

An enticing brunch menu is full of creative, break-from-the-norm takes on breakfast – thoughtfully served until 4.30pm. Smashed avocado, feta and marmite sits alongside house-smoked salmon with goats curd, apple, dill. And in a possible homage to chef Matt’s former boss, there is also 64C poached eggs with Portobello mushrooms and parmesan.

On the bar and grill menu, the platters are no bad place to start. Cured meats come from charcuterie specialists Beal’s Farm just up the road in North Chailey, with sumptuous slices of intensely spiced chorizo, as well as their take on lomo and coppa. It comes with tangy ribbons of pickled cucumber, sourdough bread and peppery olive oil.

A vegetable tempura platter has the same spirit of generosity. There are no ickle fleurets here, but grand hunks of the much abused cauliflower and broccoli, deep fried in a lightly-spiced batter until crispy inside, served with a smoky butternut squash puree.

Being a grill it is no surprise to see burgers and steaks on the menu, though their versions are no run of the mill stuff. There are the classic burgers for purists with pickles and relish, but then there is the lobster burger. Claw meat pokes from a soft brioche bun, bursting with dilly mayo, fennel and paprika spiked red cabbage slaw – a truly luxurious take on the humble burger.

Pure meat-wise there is rib-eye, sirloin, fillet, pork chops and sticky pork to choose from, the beef from just off-patch in Surrey at Plantation Pigs, while the pork is reared just ten miles away in Steyning. I opt for the fillet, with comes as a slab, as if lopped straight off the carcass. If that sounds gruesome, it isn’t – the meat is all sweet caramel exterior, with leafy grains of deep umami supple flesh. There is a ‘smoked mother gravy’ and a béarnaise, but I opt for the cardiac-troubling bone marrow butter.

A slow cooked, creamy potato gratin topped with cheese, radicchio and pumpkin salad make welcome sides to this well-cooked menu which finds that sweet spot between accessible fare and stealth diversity.

Finn Scott-Delany

 

No.32
Duke Street
Brighton
01273 773388