I WAS not amused when I turned up at the Riverside Brasserie and was left to wait at the entrance for a table.

One does not expect to have to stand there and wait and I eventually had to interrupt one of the waitresses and ask if I could have a table.

I should have known better and turned on my heel. I had intended to eat at the fantastic Baltica Polish cafe but it was shut and by the time I had strolled all the way back to the bottom of Lewes town centre I was walking no further.

“Grab that table before someone else does” I was told before a more senior worker thankfully said she would clear the table first if I didn’t mind waiting.

Not the best of starts but this cafe is in such a lovely setting on the first floor of a building overlooking the high street, the bridge and the River Ouse gently flowing underneath.

With this view I was able to recover some optimism about my meal.

This drained away again as my hunger started to get the better of me and despite lots of staff appearing to be available I couldn’t catch their attention until thankfully the senior waitress reappeared to take our order. As we waited I took in the surroundings a little more. The fake plants are pretty in their own way. The cafe was full of Lewes people, very happy with their lot in life and appearing to enjoy their food.

With its council offices and lots of public sector workers the restaurant and cafe trade in Lewes appears in rude health.

When my Lamb casserole arrived it was so hot I had to wait a little while to touch it but l I was pleasantly surprised. A generous portion of tender meat and well prepared mash, round and straight pieces of carrot. The broccoli was a little under cooked sadly but

Very tasty indeed with a free glass of wine also lifting one’s spirit. Things were looking up and I was certainly happier.The gravy tasted good but mine had turned gelatinous by the end so I had to leave it.

The Gourmand is not accustomed to waiting when I’m obviously looking up and shuffling in my chair hoping a dessert would turn things round, . So I kept looking up at the four members of staff at the till to grab their attention. When eventually I gave up and walked to the counter I was still left waiting. I waited two minutes and when the chef came out he noticed me straight away and served me.

He told the waitresses what I wanted and when one brought over my cake she turned to walk away and I had to ask her to take away my dinner plate. Somehow she had not realised that I didn’t want to put my plate with my cake on it on to my left over wobbly gravy.

My chocolate tiffin was lovely and for the record the club sandwich is of a very high standard too, a double decker with chicken, crispy bacon complemented by the right amount of avocado.

The Victoria sponge returned a happiness to the occasion a little bit more too.

The food is not the issue here though.

The conscientious waitress and the chef are up the river without a paddle at the moment though they are doing their best to wade to the shore.

But they need some help during the busy lunch spells. Customers like myself need attention.

It's time we respected the occupation of waiting tables like they do in other countries and treating it like a real job. We tend to see it as a temporary occupation while we train do other things but working in cafes and restaurants should provide a career.

One cannot expect silver service from a cafe such as this but all the same we can do so much better in this country.

As I took my sips of the mellow but fruity red wine I found myself wishing I was in France with waiters and waitresses buzzing around me.

Riverside Brasserie, Cliffe Bridge, Cliffe High Street, Lewes

Food/drink - Three stars

Service - One stars

Atmosphere - Four stars

Lamb casserole £7.95

Club Sandwich £7.95

Americano £2.85

House red wine Free with main meal

Chocolate tiffin £2.98

Victoria sponge £2.10