As we craned our necks from one side of the street to the other, Ken Huskey’s commentary was an A to Z of the rich and famous.

From actor Alan Ladd and American fashion designer Arnold Zimberg through to Zsa Zsa Gabor, the star-studded roll call provided a captivating in-sight into a corner of California that continues to encapsulate the glamour of yesteryear.

Palm Springs, two hours south-east of Los Angeles, began attracting film stars in the 1930s, when their contracts stated they had to stay within 100 miles of Universal Studios during movie shoots.

Clocking in at 97 miles, the desert oasis set against a backdrop of magnificent mountains provided them with an idyllic off-set location and quickly became a magnet for the rich and famous. In an era when A-listers were not shadowed by celebrity magazines trying to snap unflattering images of their every move, they relaxed away from the limelight and prying eyes, which meant Palm Springs also provided the perfect place for quite a few illicit trysts.

With Ken’s clues we tried to guess who lived where on the $30 two-hour tour run by Best Of The Best. Helpful hints such as the piano-shaped postbox outside Liberace’s former home, the unmistakable profile of Elvis put up by a subsequent owner, and a signature George Hamilton couldn’t resist scrawling in the wet concrete of a new driveway put us on the right track.

Ornate Spanish-style homes, roof-top sun terraces, lush gardens and the clean lines of the mid-century modern architecture for which Palm Springs is also famous – it has one of the largest concentrations in the US – led to names such as Clark Gable, Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, Frank Sinatra, Bing Crosby and Goldie Hawn making it their home.

As much as Palm Springs provided its stellar residents with a world away from fast-paced LA, it also offers a very different slice of American life to modern-day tourists. With a population of 45,000 it’s not an overwhelming big city destination. To protect views of the surrounding scenery, no buildings are over five storeys – in fact the majority are just one or two – many side streets have no lights to detract from the night time canopy of bright stars, and fast food joints are outnumbered by small delis serving delicious sandwiches made with artisan bread and restaurants where portions are tasty and imaginative rather than gargantuan. The Agua Caliente tribe of Cahuilla Indians owns part of the city and one morning we traced this heritage in the Indian Canyons and Tahquitz Canyon, the area first settled by the tribe centuries ago.

Raven Longbow, whose looks as well as his name could have been straight from a movie, took us on a one-mile walk in the nature-rich area.

Another day we headed out on an exciting jeep tour to the San Andreas Fault, where the Desert Adventures tour company has exclusive access to an 840-acre ranch located on the line of the huge sliding boundary between two of the Earth’s plates. Leaving the jeep to squeeze through a narrow canyon was a highlight of the exciting three-hour tour, which is priced from $125 and well worth the money. Our expert guide Morgan topped off the experience by giving us names using a speedy version of the way Indians named their children based on their personality traits (from now on I will also answer to Wild Pony!).

Back in the city there’s plenty to do if you can drag yourself away from the poolside. “Taking the waters” in the hot mineral springs that gave the city its name is a relaxing institution at the Spa Resort Casino, where a ten-minute soak in the toasty water rounds off time in the sauna, steam and eucalyptus inhalation rooms. If retail therapy is more your thing the area in and around Palm Canyon Drive is packed with small individual shops. Don’t miss the Thursday night Villagefest when the road is closed to make way for more than 200 stalls selling food, crafts and clothes.

When Palm Springs hit an economic downturn a couple of decades ago, new life was breathed into the area by the gay community and it’s made a name for itself as an inclusive and welcoming LGBT destination. I stayed at Casitas Laquita, a tranquil and private women’s resort comprising 15 well-equipped casitas, complete with kitchens, decorated in warm Spanish colonial style and surrounding a fish-shaped pool. While it’s the obvious choice for same-sex couples, it’s equally suited to girlie getaways and solo female travellers.

The city is also a popular retirement spot, but there’s no sign of the Fabulous Follies’ cast swapping dance shoes for comfy slippers. Now in its 21st year, the must-see variety show stars glamorous dancers from 56 to an age-defying 81 and it’s worth arriving early to see the fantastic pre-show vintage film footage about the area.

Walking the streets, in the sky or on the stage, Palm Springs is a dazzling destination where you’ll have stars in your eyes everywhere you look.

* Virgin Atlantic flies twice daily from London Heathrow to Los Angeles, with return fares from £624 per person. Call 0844 2092770 or visit www.virgin atlantic.com

* Casitas Laquita offers self-contained casitas and suites, including some with private patios, from $100 (£63) per night. For reservations and information visit www.casitaslaquita.com

* The retro Rendezvous has film and TV-themed rooms from $139 (£87) per night including breakfast. Visit www.palmsprings rendezvous.com

* Palm Springs visitor information: www.visitpalmsprings.com