Isaac at gloucester road
North Laine, Brighton

 

The team behind Isaac at Gloucester Road may be young, but they are not lacking in enthusiasm and ambition.

Just a few weeks old, the pop-up is rocketing up the Tripadvisor league tables, while only opening on Friday and Saturday evenings.

Despite its immediate popularity, chef Isaac Bartlett-Copeland, 22, is not tempted to create a seven-day operation just yet.

He explained: “If we were working all the time we wouldn’t have time to progress the menu. We want to make everything absolutely perfect.

“I could make a lot more money if we opened seven days but we just want to make the food as good as we can.

“We want to be up there with the best restaurants in Brighton.”

The restaurant has a prime location in the North Laine and hopes to host guest chefs.

Isaac, who grew up in Lewes, managed to snap up an affordable deal for a former financial advisor at 2 Gloucester Road which was converting into a restaurant with open kitchen following several months of hard-graft.

Before setting up on his own, Isaac got experience with Michelin-starred Tom Aitkens and the Harwood Arms in between stints at The Grand Hotel’s GB1 restaurant, where he met Kyle Newman and George Thomas, both 20.

The trio pitch in on everything while Isaac’s girlfriend does front-of-house.

Virtually all produce is from Sussex – including wine, beer and even the vodka – and the set menus are simple but lovingly put together.

“My cookery is all about vibrancy and freshness – and a little bit of surprise,” Isaac explained. “I don’t like to make the presentation too complicated, I want the focus to be on the flavours.”

A starter of seared scallops is served with familiar bedfellow cauliflower, which is dressed up in a pickle as well as a light curry coating, under a rich beurre noisette, a buttery sauce.

The cauliflower, butter and curry combo resemble a humble gobi masala, while the juicy shellfish add a touch of luxury.

An earthy main course of pork comes with brined belly, soft 12-hour cheek and rose-pink loin, with beetroot ketchup and watercress puree.

A palette cleanser of tart Granny Smith sorbet and savoury rosemary is served ahead of a freshly cooked almond and raspberry cake, served with raspberry ice cream.

Does he lack the experience to run his own restaurant? Not according to Isaac.

“You don’t stop learning,” he added.

“We prep on Wednesday and Thursday but spend Tuesday purely on experimentation.

“We’re always looking to make improvements and move things forward.”

Isaac at Gloucester Road
2 Gloucester Street
Brighton
07765934740