As the UK’s number one seaside visitor destination, the competition between Brighton’s hotels is fierce.

Despite a slew of recent new openings – including Malmaison at Brighton Marina and Indigo in the New England Quarter – one property has consistently shone with its relaxed sophistication and discreet professional service.

Drakes opened 14 years ago in their splendid Regency townhouse on Marine Parade, offering what’s probably best described as ‘luxury with your shoes kicked off’.

I can still recall the launch party which saw the great and good of the city awash with complimentary Champagne and cocktails until the wee small hours of the morning.

Still a favourite haunt of celebrities who don’t want to be seen, nothing appears to be too much effort for the team in ensuring your every need is discreetly and professionally catered for.

“We believe in consistency, when it comes to the quality of our offering”, says marketing and events manager Carla ter Maat who’s been with the hotel since almost day one.

“Our regulars and guests know to expect a highly personal service and love the exemplary standards of bespoke guest rooms as well as food and drink”.

Whilst small with just 20 bedrooms, the hotel offers a full 24-hour concierge service, popular cocktail bar and their renowned fine dining restaurant.

For the 9th consecutive year – the restaurant at Drakes received the highest score award of any restaurant in Brighton in the Good Food Guide 2018.

“We say ‘there are no small plates at Drakes’”, jokes Carla. “Whilst many of the wonderful chefs in the city have run with small plate dining, we’ve maintained our a la carte and that has created a differential for us.”

The restaurant has quite rightly gained a reputation for special occasion dining.

That’s not to say that the service or dining environment is in any way stuffy, in fact when we visited, our host on the night Kevin O’Brien made my colleague Sue and I so relaxed with his personable service that we felt absolutely at home.

Former sous chef Andy Vitez was promoted to head chef around two years ago, and he’s built on the classic Drake’s style but taken it up to the next level, ably assisted by new sous chef Alex Burtenshaw.

Quality seafood and meats – including venison – have always been trademarks of Drakes but Andy has added a much-needed fresh and contemporary twist.

Dishes on the current winter menu include superb quality steak and pancetta – cooked perfectly and unquestioningly to Sue’s pedantic whimsy –, whilst I enjoyed a cod with a crust of chorizo accompanied by spring onion mash and a delightfully acidic citrus sauce.

The plating really is exquisite and the flavours and textures well considered; there is nothing lazy about Andy’s cooking.

Popular with local residents and hotel guests alike, the ground floor bar was shortlisted this year by industry bible - Imbibe magazine - for the range and scope of their gin menu.

It is testament to the skill and vision of their in-house mixologist wizard Tom Gabb who joined the team around a year or so back and has rapidly left his mark on both the bar and the cocktail scene of the wider city.

“I love the fact that I have almost complete autonomy in the bar”, says Tom. “That gave me the scope and freedom to improve the cocktail offering and spirit selection that I inherited”.

“Using interesting ingredients with perfectly matched spirits mean you have absolute control over the flavour of the drink.

“One of my most recent creations for our current menu is a whiskey-based drink incorporating truffle infused honey and orange and lemon oleo-saccharum.

“It’s this ability to try new things with the input of my bar team, and the collaboration of our exemplary team of chefs, that’s the secret of our success”.

Whilst Brighton’s hospitality sector continues to grow and adapt to trends, there’s one thing we can be sure of: that Drakes will continue to be head and shoulders over the crowd in the years to come.

Drakes is Brighton’s real deal.

Drakes (43-44 Marine Parade, Brighton) is currently running a Lunch special - 3 courses for the price of 2, and will be offering a new set 3-course dinner menu for January.

For more information contact 01273 696934 or visit drakesofbrighton.com