Max’s Sea Grill

The Royal York Hotel can lay claim to a stellar cast of diners down the years.

Charles Dickens, William Gladstone and the Duke and Duchess of Clarence all ate here, generations before the 18th century building was restored to its former glory in February with a £2m facelift.

Now the hotel has followed up the refurbishment with the launch of a new 50-seat fish restaurant which aims to provide a dining experience that’s within the reach of those of us who aren’t nobility or Victorian cultural icons.

The emphasis is on simplicity, and the menu is a straightforward selection of whole pieces of the day’s catch, including halibut, squid, lemon sole and sea bass – all of which can be served char-grilled, steamed or battered.

The menu has been put together by head chef Kristian Smith-Wallace, who has an impressive CV.

Kristian had his own restaurant, 33 St James Street, London, which he sold to Gordon Ramsay.

He also worked for the expletive-crazed TV chef at Ramsay’s flagship restaurant in Royal Hospital Road.

“My wife and I spent eight years in London and we wanted to bring our son up by the sea.

They do say Brighton is London by the sea,” he says.

With more than 20 years in the industry behind him, Kristian began his career at The Capital in London, where he worked under twice Michelin-starred chef Philip Britton.

After moving to the South Coast and with a stint at One Paston Place behind him, he says he is settling in to Brighton well.

Of the city’s restaurants, he says he has been particularly impressed with the Gingerman chain, singling out the Norfolk Square restaurant and The Ginger Pig in Hove.

He describes the atmosphere at Max’s Sea Grill as cosy and comfortable, pointing to the enormous bay windows which give way to the dining room.

“We have set prices here, so it’s £5 for starters, £10.50 for mains and £3.95 for desserts,” he says.

“For the forseeable future, I don’t see the prices going up too much.”

The set prices are supported by a deal that offers two courses and a bottle of wine for £15.50 per person.

The deal runs until Thursday, October 30.

Kristian says he would struggle to select a single dish from the menu as his personal favourite – but if pushed he would choose the halibut.

“You can get hold of lots of fish at the supermarket now, even things like monkfish and John Dory, but you can’t buy halibut,” he says.

“It’s quite a meaty fish and the biggest flatfish you can get.

We just buy the tail and it’s about five kilos.”

With the choice of how diners want their fish cooked, each main course also comes with a choice of side orders, including French fries, salads and new potatoes.

A selection of sauces, ranging from lime to hollandaise, means each diner can create each dish to their own tastes Fish isn’t to everyone’s taste, and so a small selection of meat dishes, including Sussex lamb skewers and grilled sirloin steak are available for non fish eaters.

Cocktails are available in the hotel’s sea lounge as a pre-dinner aperitif, and your meal can be followed by a turn in one of the hotel’s three private karaoke rooms, should you fancy a bit of Neil Diamond after dessert.

Sample the menu

Starters: £5
Chicken liver parfait with toasted brioche
Mediterranean fish soup
Deep-fried whitebait with tartar sauce
Salmon fish cake with beurre blanc sauce
Salads: £5 starter, £8.50 main
Classic caesar salad
Tomato, mozzarella and basil salad
Tuna salad nicoise
Prawn, apple and avocado salad
Mains: £10.50
Max’s shellfish risotto
Fish and tiger prawn skewer
Seafood and tomato linguine
Minted Sussex lamb skewer
Fish: £10.50
Char-grilled, steamed or crispy battered line-caught sea bass, halibut, salmon,
haddock and cod, all with a choice of beurre blanc, lime, hollandaise or tartar sauce
Sides: £2.50 for any two
Mixed salad
French fries
Minted new potatoes
Green beans
Desserts: £3.95
Apple tarte tatin
Sticky toffee pudding
Lemon cheesecake

Open from noon-3pm and 6pm-9.30pm Monday to Thursday, noon-10pm Saturday