42 Sydney Street, Brighton, 01273 673966
As you walk through the door of Solera D Tapa, it’s like entering someone’s home rather than a restaurant, and you are immediately transported to Spain.
An all-Spanish staff run the establishment.
Their continuous chatter can be heard over the soft, Spanish music which plays in the background, and one waitress sings along quietly and unconsciously as she works.
The décor is uncompromisingly traditional, with rustic bare-brick walls and solid wood floors.
It is humble and understated, with low, small wooden tables and stools to sit on.
The warm yellow walls are decorated with shelves bearing bottles of Spanish wine.
Unsurprisingly, when asked where he likes to eat, co-owner Luis Benjumeda says, “In places where we feel at home.”
The restaurant is small and intimate, with tables set closely together, and each seating a maximum of four people.
There are only six of them, as well as a bar in the window which seats three.
There is further seating at the back of the restaurant, in a snug nestled out of sight, with a wall painted with a mural of the Spanish countryside.
But decoration has been kept to a minimum.
Solera D Tapa is all about the food – the smells of which fill your nostrils as soon as you walk through the door – and the people who serve it, who are attentive and friendly.
A handwritten sign reading “Cash only please” reinforces the simplicity of the restaurant.
Solera D Tapa opened two months ago in North Laine.
Luis and co-owner Genaro Cala also own Bodega D Tapa in nearby Church Street.
A bodega is a small wine-cum-grocery store and, like its older sister, Solera D Tapa is more than just a restaurant, with an array of speciality Spanish foods and wines on sale, many of which are produced by the owners.
Genaro’s father’s family have been producing wine, sherry and vinegar in Spain since 1829 while his mother’s family have been producing manually-pressed olive oil at their own mills for about 200 years.
The marriage of food and wine is at the heart of the restaurants.
As Luis explains: “The wine was always directly related to the food, so we thought to unite wine and food in the same business.
We name this concept ‘maridaje’.”
Solera D Tapa’s menu aims to create the perfect “maridaje” by combining traditional ingredients and recipes from the Jerez area with quality wines.
It is packed full of Spanish delicacies which range in price from £3.75 for tapas, to a maximum of £9 for main course platters.
Drinks are also reasonably priced – a Spanish coffee or hot chocolate costs only £1.25 and a large glass of house wine is only £2.50.
The food is freshly prepared and made from scratch by the two female chefs, Nati Carracedo and Morgana Villén.
All traditional ingredients are imported from Spain but the eggs and meat are free-range and sourced locally.
“We put a lot of love into the cooking, which is very important,” Morgana says.
Morgana mentions the “humour” amongst the staff and, almost on queue, laughter erupts from behind the bar.
Luis says: “We want to make the guests feel the same atmosphere we have in Spain.
“Good food, good wine and ‘Tertulia’ – with no hurry.”
In other words, totally at home.
Sample the menu
Traditional Breakfast
Bolleria (pastry): £1.20
To stada: To asted bread with a choice of butter and jam or honey; tomatoes and olive oil; tomatoes, olives and ham (jamón ibérico); loin and liver pate (lomo en manteca roja); Iberian meat spread (sobrasada ibérica): £1.20-£1.95
Starters
Aceitunas (olives seasoned with olive oil, smoked paprika and sherry vinegar): £1.95
Pimientos asados (roasted red peppers): £3.75 as tapas, £7 as a main course
Mains
Caldereta de carrillada (Spanish stew with meat and vegetables): £4.50 as tapas, £8.25 as a main course
Albóndigas con piñones (meatballs with pignolia in a homemade sauce): £3.75 as tapas, £7 as a main course
Tortilla de camarones (baby shrimp fritters in a thin batter): £7 as a main course
Ensalada de palmitos (marinated palm hearts): £4.50
Paella: £3.75 as tapas, £7 as a main course
Desserts
Arroz con leche (rice pudding): £3.50
Open 7 days a week from 10am to 11pm.
Breakfast is served from 10am to 12.30pm daily.
The restaurant offers a take-away service for all items on the main menu.
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