Food lovers across Sussex are jumping on to the Atkins diet bandwagon and butchers are once again bringing home the bacon.

Roy Cooper has never had it so good. He's looking at record red meat sales this year thanks to the latest food fad.

And as customers' waistlines shrink, more steaks, sausages and bacon are flying off the shelves.

Mr Cooper, who runs Barfields butcher's in King's Parade, Brighton, said: "I've been here for 20 years and trade is better than it's ever been. It's absolutely fantastic.

"It started last September and since then we've been selling more steak and other red meat than I've ever known."

Mr Cooper is one of many butchers in Sussex enjoying a resurgence in sales in a trade still recovering from the loss in public confidence which followed the BSE crisis.

The controversial Atkins diet is proving to be the biggest boost for the industry for years.

It was dreamt up 30 years ago in New York but is enjoying a surge in popularity after being taken up by stars, including Jennifer Aniston, Brad Pitt, Robbie Williams and Geri Halliwell.

Cardiologist Robert C Atkins preached a daily regime high in protein but low in carbohydrates.

It means dieters are free to eat dairy products, meat and fish but have to steer clear of bread, pasta, potatoes and rice.

Mr Cooper said: "It's done wonders for my business as well as my customers' weight. I've had so many people tell me they're on the Atkins diet, I'm thinking of trying it myself. One of my female customers swears by it. She's been doing it for about two months and I can really notice the difference, she looks much slimmer.

"And people aren't just going for the cheaper cuts. Our steaks are delivered from Scotland, they're more expensive than local meat but the quality is fantastic and sales are higher than ever before.

"British butchers have a lot to thank Atkins for."

A spokeswoman for Waitrose said the supermarket had seen meat sales rise 16 per cent over the last year.

Simon Moss, of Bramptons Butchers in St George's Road, Brighton, said: "BSE and foot-and-mouth really hit sales. But we've had lots of people coming into the shop and saying they're on the Atkins diet. It has really improved sales, which are up on this time last year."

The losers in the Atkins craze seem to be producers of carbohydrate-rich foods.

A survey commissioned by the Federation of Bakers found almost a quarter of 25 to 33-year-olds and 22 per cent of all women, were limiting consumption of starch and carbohydrates.

The Federation has also organised British Bread Month, which will take place in October and aims to drive up sales.

The British Potato Council is running a Fab Not Fad campaign to encourage people to eat more of the humble spud.

But despite health warnings, including experts warning the Atkins diet could lead to kidney stones, liver failure, osteoporosis or just plain halitosis, Atkins's book, New Diet Revolution, has sold two million copies in Britain.

And some of its biggest devotees are men.

Not usually keen on lettuce leaf diets, men are willing to give the meat and dairy diet a go.

Steve Bartholomew, manager at Three Cooks in George Street, Brighton, said lunchtimes at the bakery seemed to be undergoing a transformation.

Mr Bartholomew: "There has been an increase in men buying meat fillings for sandwiches - but they order sandwiches without the bread.

"At least four of our male regulars are on the Atkins diet and they buy bacon or other meat for lunch. We put it in a bag for them without the bread."

New Diet Revolution has become a marketing phenomenon and is the second most read book in Britain, outstripping everything but Harry Potter, three to one.

But nutritionists have warned those hoping to shed pounds by scoffing steak and Camembert to be careful.

Experts say fad dieting is no substitute for a sensible, balanced diet and regular exercise.

Tuesday August 5, 2003